By Nan Mackenzie
I am in essence an incurable optimist. The fact is I love restaurants; I love the promise of a menu, the sense of expectation, and the lack of washing up. There is however a down side when reviewing an eatery as its always tempting after having enjoyed a meal which falls easily into the ‘thoroughly agreeable’ category to get a little over excited, to start throwing adjectives that can leave those heading there on your advice a little disappointed.
This week’s restaurant is a little bit different in that it offers two separate Kitchens and that’s where the ‘more’ bit comes in, for here is a place where you can eat good standard Sushi, Sashimi, Californian rolls and fish platters from the Japanese menu, or you can mix and match with a range of salads, sandwiches, pastas, grills, fish and meat dishes. Whatever taste bud urge you may have, it can usually be satisfied here from breakfast through lunch and into dinner. It’s a classic high street concept which offers a relaxed Brassiere style service and its prime position, just opposite the Paphos police station, allows those dining outdoors the fun of constant people watching from this busy junction.
Inside its all unvarnished wood and discreet lighting. One gets the feeling it would be possible to hunker down in a corner for a month and, on a daily basis, happily order a new dish and still receive good quality ingredients, cooked well and at non threatening prices, such is the flexibility of the menu.
That’s not to say it’s a vast tomb listing frozen food and fifteen ways with a pork fillet, no it’s a very good well balanced menu from salads to sandwiches (the beef gherkin and welsh cheese club sandwich are well worth the visit). There are three pasta dishes, then from the grill station you can indulge in Salmon Teriyaki, or chicken kebab, there’s a big emphasis also on cheese with six speciality cheese based offerings including deep fired cheese balls on a tomato marmalade, or tempura feta cheese with roasted sesame seeds. There are also half a dozen fish dishes with the marinated red mullet and smoked eggplant salad being a popular choice, along with the tempura king prawns doused in a sweet chilli sauce, and sausage lovers can indulge in a Greek gourmet sausage from the beautiful island of Mykonos plus potato salad on the side.
We started with deep fried cheese balls partnered by a tomato marmalade then progressed on to clearing a platter of mixed sushi which included neat Californian rolls with Maki Sushi (rice and seaweed rolls with fish). There was also a sashimi sushi as part of the platter and this raw fish reflected the utter freshness needed to lay claim to offering a proper Sushi kitchen. Platters range from €21 to €29 and include an interesting Fusion platter which shows off the tempura talents mixed with king prawn rolls and vegetable Maki.
For those who just fancy a good bottle of wine and a selection of nice nibbles there is a selection of ‘wine’ platters to flatter the palate, these include a good cheese board, one laden with cured meats also a great value mixed Mediterranean platter for €10, or you can plump for just a plate of nachos with your bottle of red for only €4.
Customers also enjoy being able to prop themselves on comfortable stools at the sushi bar and watch as behind a glass panel a pair of unfeasibly fast hands go to work creating your sushi platters, for here is a partnership of carbs (rice) and fish which for those with a piscatorial bent has to be the ultimate win win situation as snacking on this sushi not only makes one feel incredibly virtuous, it’s healthy eating as well as being curiously hedonistic.
Sushi and More is a place where you can go to try out different dishes, knowing the owners behind the place are consummate professionals in the business of feeding you for the long term, so they take no shortcuts, you also go for a bill which won’t make your ears bleed.
SPECIALITY Japanese and Mediterranean dishes
WHERE Sushi & More, Apostole Pavlou, opposite Paphos police station, Paphos
PRICE from €10
WHEN Open from 11am till late 7 days a week