Cyprus Mail
Restaurant & Bar Reviews

Restaurant review: Tweedies, Paphos

It takes enormous amounts of hard work to seem effortless; artists of all sorts practice and practice again so that when the moment comes they are able to deliver the goods with consummate ease. At Tweedies restaurant in Kissonerga, Paphos there is a lot of that effortlessness in action and it’s all down to a great partnership of Craig in the kitchen and Hilary front of house, both blessed with good taste and a sense of what matters when it comes to being hosts.

This renovated village house is small with an inside dining area that can cope with maybe 30 covers. There is also a rather sweet garden area for those who wish to dine alfresco in this straightforward no-nonsense offering. There is a gastro pub feel about the menu and that’s no bad thing as I would compare Tweedies to a quality French Bistro, a place of safety, somewhere one can relax and eat well.

The menu is short with eight starters and mains to choose from. We kicked off with hot smoked trout with white asparagus spears partnered by a perfectly cooked breaded hen’s egg sporting a lovely texture with a buttery yolk with nearly the texture of pudding. Add to that a light crunchy shell and a touch of Béarnaise sauce that had me sweeping around the plate with the combined resources at hand of delicious homemade bread plus the edge of my fork.

My companions delighted in proper, and I mean proper, creamy risotto with porcini mushrooms, white truffle oil, wild rocket and a parmesan crisp, and the steamed blue crab dumplings in white wine, saffron and tomato and chive. Then there was envious looks and forks hovered when another was presented with her grilled langoustines. We then followed with fresh whole grilled rainbow trout, pan roasted loin of monkfish wrapped in pancetta with a cheesy leek fondue and as a nod to chef’s Scottish roots we all had a try at his veggie haggis packed into a delicious filo pastry and generously doused with whisky set in a mushroom cream.

The a la carte men also offers on a Sunday a roast top side of Black Angus beef with the usual trimmings of Yorkshire pudding and roasted potatoes. Although we as a group went more for fish and vegetarian dishes the menu also offers pan seared calf’s liver, plus a slow roasted spicy lamb shank with creamy polenta in addition to a breast of chicken that has been generously stuffed with buffalo mozzarella, sun dried tomatoes and fresh basil.

rest2The restaurant has over the years attracted a solid expat customer base and Helen assured me that although the array of bobbing ‘snow heads’ was dominant in the dining room the word has got out to a younger set so they are now beginning to fill the chairs.

When the pudding menu was being pondered over and decisions were trying to be made our Cypriot friend announced that he had never tasted a ’crumble’ and duly cleared his plate of every scrap of apple and blackberry crumble with custard, another went for the Thai style rice pudding with coconut milk, lemon grass and mango although this one dish we felt could have had a bit of a bigger punch flavour wise, another plumped for the comfort of warm banana and butterscotch crepes with vanilla ice cream.

I mention ‘punchy’ flavours because there is a tendency to perhaps lower the ‘punch’ appeal for older palates or for those who continually sing the old refrain ‘it’s not too spicy is it’ whenever they encounter an ingredient they are unfamiliar with. Either way, we sometimes got the feeling that Chef may well have held back a bit when reaching out for the seasonings. That said we thoroughly enjoyed the meal, and one could tell our fellow diners were also satisfied as there was a definite overall purr of happy people emanating from the tables. I will definitely return, probably often.

VITAL STATISTICS
SPECIALTY International
WHERE Tweedies, Kissonerga, Paphos
WHEN Thursday to Monday from 6pm. Booking essential. Cash only
CONTACT 99 126590, www.tweedies.com

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