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A cut above the rest

feature3 andreas dometakis

Making a fashion statement has become big business for shirt maker Andreas Dometakis. PAUL LAMBIS meets a man who has dressed stars of stage and screen for the last 60 years

For more than 60 years Andreas Dometakis has been a beacon for quality shirts. As one of the most respected and internationally renowned shirt makers in the entertainment industry, he is a flagbearer for fashion. From opulent theatrical productions and successful TV series to Oscar-winning films, Andreas’ creations are one-of-a-kind treasures, some developing a cult-like following.

Born in Limassol, he relocated to the UK in the early 1960s, immediately using his cutting skills to work at a high-end clothing manufacturer in London. “I was excited to start a new chapter in my life, particularly in London,” Andreas said.

“The sixties were the defining decade for Britain, and London was going through a metamorphosis – from a gloomy post-war capital into a shining epicentre of style. I wanted to be a part of it,” he added. Realising the rising demands put on the city’s fashion design, retail and manufacturing industry, Andreas enrolled himself in college to improve his sewing skills. Taken aback by his creative know-how, which he acquired from his early days in Cyprus, his teacher felt there was nothing more that Andreas could learn, so he left.

feature3 andreas dometakis at workSeven years later, Andreas founded his own tailoring business in the Soho area of central London, specialising in bespoke shirts and collaborating with some of the most notable tailors and designers near Piccadilly Circus and on Savile Row. His exceptional artistry soon reached the ears of the BBC’s costume designers, who commissioned him to create sequin shirts for The Black and White Minstrel Show – a lavishly costumed variety show, which presented traditional American minstrel and country songs.

“When I saw my work on television for the first time, it was emotional,” Andreas said. “Success necessitates sacrifice. But it is the challenges that are the best lessons in the end; the best souvenirs.” His work ethic led to a closer working relationship with the BBC, leading to him creating custom-made shirts for popular sketch comedies and music shows such as The Two Ronnies and The Young Generation.

Together with his wife Androulla, who he met at their local church group and later married, Andreas relocated their business to bigger premises to better accommodate the growing pool of elite clientele in search of his timeless, one-off creations. Dedicated to his profession, Andreas followed the trends and made a point of understanding customer needs. Utilising quality fabrics and sewing techniques, he offered details that were customised according to preference such as collars, cuffs, and the types of buttons used.

Living in Covent Garden – an open-air fruit-and-vegetable market at the time – and close to the Royal Opera House, Andreas would meet well-known actors, performers, musicians, and tenors on a regular basis, all identifying with his artisanship and personalised service. “I take countless measurements and consider every detail of the architecture of the shirt before producing the final product that will bear the ‘Dometakis’ fashion label,” he said. “It is my stamp of approval.”

He has built up an impressive list of working on the highest level of commercial theatre productions, from London’s celebrated West End to New York’s dazzling Broadway district. Since it first opened in London in 1986 and in 1988 in New York, Andreas continues to work feverishly behind the scenes, creating shirts for the world’s most popular musical, The Phantom of the Opera. “I travelled extensively with the production to Japan, Austria, Germany, France and Belgium, ensuring my creations were perfect for every global performance.” But it doesn’t stop there. The ‘Dometakis’ signature label can be spotted in countless wardrobes of many professional productions including Singin in the Rain, Grease, Sunset Boulevard, Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, Les Misérables, Evita, Miss Saigon and Wicked. Andreas is currently working on the shirts for Tim Rice and Andrew Lloyd Webber’s multi-award winning musical Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat.

All a long way from Cyprus, the country of their birth and for which Andreas and Androulla have great affection. Androulla was born in a village in the north and relocated with her family to the UK at the age of nine. Both are proud of their cultural heritage, and rarely hesitate to promote their Cypriot identity among their star-studded friends. Brad Pitt and Johnny Depp are regular customers, as are a wide variety of dignitaries and royals; however, Andreas and Androulla refuse to disclose their names.

Like most costume designers, Andreas possesses the skill to satisfy the unique demands of designing shirts for film. As well as contributing to the look, he understands that costume is at the core of a film or television drama. “It is important for one to research fashion, especially if it is from another era,” he said. “My shirts have to duplicate the film’s period exactly, as it will help the actor feel emotionally connected to the character he is playing.”

feature3 johnny depp in a pinstripe shirt for chocolat
Johnny Depp in a pinstripe shirt for Chocolat
feature3 colin firth in the king's speech
Colin Firth in the king’s speech

Andreas works closely with costume and wardrobe departments, researching, sketching and drawing mood boards of characters and clothes to communicate the style. His vast list of film shirt credits include the ‘train shirt’ worn by Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible, the multi-coloured pinstripe design worn by Johnny Depp in Chocolat, Colin Firth’s buttoned-up vintage collar shirt in The King’s Speech, and Harrison Ford’s distinctive and timeless shirt from the highly successful Indiana Jones franchise. “I based the design on a typical safari-style shirt,” Andreas said. “I was surprised when this item of clothing developed a cult following with fans of the film and was at one stage one of the most sought-after film souvenirs.” Andreas also has a long-standing history with Britain’s secret agent, James Bond, creating tailored-to-fit shirting for all of the actors who have portrayed Ian Fleming’s 007.

In recent years, Andreas’ shirt credits include Mr Selfridge, a British TV series about Harry Gordon Selfridge and his department store, and Netflix’s historical drama, The Crown – one of the most streamed television series of all time.

At the age of 83, Andreas is showing no signs of retiring. When asked what legacy he would like to leave behind, he turns to look at the woman sitting beside him, his wife and pillar of strength for over 50 years, and thanks God for his countless blessings, which include children and grandchildren. For those unfamiliar with Andreas’ personal journey, his time honoured reputation is capitalised on in more than six decades of delivering beautifully crafted, fully bespoke shirts that are certainly a cut above the rest.

 

Find the full interview with Andreas Dometakis on Culturescope Season 2 Episode 3 on Cyprus Mail’s Good Living portal from July 12

 

 

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