Cyprus competes successfully in the high altitude vineyard market
There has been a lot of talk about high altitude vineyards. It is a relative term, when it comes to viticulture. A grapevine can thrive at very high altitudes as the highest vineyards in the world are in Tibet at 3,563 metres above sea level and in Argentina at 3,111 metres. Some of South America’s winegrowing areas – Argentina’s Salta and Chile’s Elqui Valley – have vineyards above 2,000m, with peaks at over 3,000m. In these tropical regions, altitude helps to moderate the climate
Europe’s highest vineyards can be found off West Africa. It may be part of Spain, but Tenerife lies off Africa, on the same latitude as Egypt. Without the cooling effects of sea breezes and altitude, it would be too hot and humid to grow grapes here. This is why it is home to Spain’s highest vineyards, up to 1,700m on the slopes of the Mount Teide volcano. Continental Europe’s highest vineyards proper, with altitudes of up to about 1,200m, are found in Italy’s extreme north-west, in Aosta Valley and its neighbouring Alpine regions as well as in Cyprus – the second highest – at 1,501 metres.
As the Earth’s climate warms, cooler sites are becoming more attractive for winemakers, as are the temperature differences between day and night seen in higher elevations. Grapes from these altitudes tend to have thicker skins, adding more intense flavours, deeper colours and stronger tannins to a wine.
Yet, the extreme nature of high-altitude vineyards presents significant challenges too. Summers can be particularly hot but water is a luxury. Steep inclines might mean mechanisation is just impracticable. In Italy’s Aosta Valley, or in Cyprus, for instance, and on the Peruvian Andes, vine growers tackle steep slopes by building terraces.
The highest vineyards in Cyprus are in the Troodos mountains and particularly in Pitsilia region. These are vines rooted in soils derived from the ophiolitic rocks that once formed part of the oceanic crust of the Tethys Sea from which Troodos emerged. This ophiolite complex is scientifically recognised as the best and most well studied worldwide.
Most of the vineyards in Pitsilia are located at altitudes from 1,000 to 1,500 metres with the highest at 1,501, just below Madari peak. The high altitudes and steep slopes, with gradients of more than 30 per cent, form a difficult terrain to work and is suitable only for a few, heroic winegrowers.
As mentioned, grapes from high altitude vineyards develop complex flavours and high acidity due to cooler temperatures, increase exposure to UV light and large diurnal temperature fluctuations. The nutrient-poor soil and excellent drainage enhance the aromatic characteristics and complexity of the wine. These factors make the vineyards of Pitsilia and the Troodos Geopark unique in their kind.
Vines Above Clouds’ collaboration is an innovative partnership which brings together three wineries, Tsiakkas, Kyperounda and Santa Irene. The partnership, which is funded by the Leader initiative of the Troodos Development Company, aims to promote the wines of the region and the unique heritage of Troodos vineyards located at altitudes above 800m.
Its main aim is to highlight the precious heritage of the region’s high-altitude vineyards, which reach altitudes of up to 1,501 metres, making them perhaps the highest in Europe.
The inaugural event of the Vines Above the Clouds collaboration was held at Pinolo restaurant in Nicosia. The event included a tasting led by the distinguished Master of Wine Demetri Walters, during which participants had the opportunity to taste selected wines from high altitude vineyards.
Wines review
2021 Vinea Ardua Eteon, Xynisteri, PGI Lefkosia ABV 13%
Vinea Ardua in Latin means steep slope. Vineyards are at altitudes between 1000-1300 metres and have been standing there for 120 years. The native variety of Xynisteri is rare among these vineyards, being trained from the original old vine. Eteon in ancient Greek means genuine, the vines are produced organically 50 per cent is vinified in traditional clay pots (pitharia) and 50 per cent in stainless steel tanks, remaining for five months in oak barrels. A wine with bags of character and textural appeal. Clean, precise and detailed, it has transparent aromas of white grapefruit, orange blossom, clementine zest, jasmine and crunchy pear, along with herbal notes. Complex and earthy, in a full-bodied palate, it offers grapefruit, pear fine herb flavours with lasting acidity. €15.50
2022 Kyperounda Winery Epos, PGI Lemesos, ABV 15.1%
The vineyard is between Chandria and Kyperounda villages on steep slopes around 1,350 meters. Fermentation and ageing for nine months, the result is a wine that offers tropical aromas of grilled pineapple, a hint of lemon zest, and subtle oak. It is medium-bodied with layered flavours of sliced peaches and golden delicious apples, finishing crisp and clean with well-balanced acid. €23.90
2023 Tsiakkas Exelixis, PGI Lemesos, ABV 13%
The blend for this wine is from Petralona vineyards at 1,480m the Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay and Promara and Xinisteri are from Ayios Ioannis at 1200m. Brilliant, intensive yellow. In the nose, a complex, beguiling play of aromas unfurls with fruity nuances of exotic fruits such as pineapple, notes of blossoms and flowers, of rose petals and light toast aromas. With fullness and structure, creamily soft and elegant. €19.95
2021 Vinea Ardua Aeòneo, Mavro, PGI Lefkosia, ABV 16%
The Mavro grape is dominant in the area, Aeoneo meaning eternal in Greek and is produced from 100-year-old vines from 1000 to 1300m It is vinified in clay pots and then remains for six months in oak. Ripe and powerful, round and juicy with flavours of raspberries and redcurrants and with a delicate touch of pepper and pronounced blackcurrant. Quite a serious tannin structure that’s married to crisp, mineral acidity. €19.50
2019 Tsiakkas Winery Anagenesis, PGI Lemesos, ABV 13.5%
A blend of Giannoudi at 1200m, Maratheftiko/Vamvakada from Agros at 1,100 and Mavro from Kyperounda at 1,400m. Tantalising aromas of ripe strawberry, cherry, plum and grenadine leap from the glass, followed by suggestions of blueberry as well as subtle oak tones of slivered almond and hazelnut, eucalyptus and leather. The saturated red fruit layers are echoed on the delightfully supple palate, where they mingle with dynamic flavours of red licorice, orange zest and candied grape. €49
2021 Kyperounda Winery Epos, PGI Lemesos, ABV 15.3%
Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon from the winery’s own vineyard mature in French oak for 18 months. The wine is a brilliant, deep red hue. The nose shows great class, with soft aromas of blackberries, dark cherries, plums and violets, black pepper, coffee and oak with a touch of licorice and eucalyptus. On the palate it shows plenty of concentration in its fruit. €22
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