Wine produced in Nicosia mountains fall into this category and are well worth the time

Heroic vineyards are located on small islands or in areas subject to hydrogeological instability or whose conditions make mechanisation at least almost impossible. In all cases, these are extremely difficult conditions compared to traditional viticulture.

Heroic viticulture, therefore, is generally practiced in the mountains. Vineyards cultivated in this way must stand on terraces or steps or have a minimum slope of 30 per cent at a minimum altitude of 500m above sea level. But one also speaks of heroic vine-growing with reference to vines cultivated on small islands. It is sufficient that the vineyard meets one of these characteristics to be defined as heroic; wines that are the result of complex work.

Nicosia district is becoming popular for its wine-producing regions. The north-facing slopes of Pitsilia compete with the southern facing slopes of Limassol. The development came as wineries cultivated vineyards at high altitude exposed to cold northern winds. Askas is one of these villages, and has its own winery that falls into the category of heroic viticulture.

Askon winery began in 1991 when a young couple with their love of the place, hospitality and tradition created Pernia restaurant. Their children, Harris and Constantinos, restless by nature, continued the family trade. The first trained as a chef and the second an oenologist, and had their own vision for Pernia restaurant. It is now revamped with a new menu while Constantinos’ love for winemaking led to the creation of Askon Art Winery. The family vineyards were revived, where sustainable cultivation methods and precision viticulture are now applied.

The vineyards are located near Askas, at altitudes from 970m to 1,300m above sea level. Stony soils with sandy clay texture, some volcanic with low yields, cool, high diurnal temperatures are fertile ground for the native varieties of Yiannoudi, Maratheftiko, Mavro, Xynisteri and Vasilissa as well as international varieties such as Assyrtiko, Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc.

2023 Askon Art Krama White, Nicosia, ABV 12.5%

With a production of around 2,000 bottles per year, this is an interesting white dry, a blend of Xynisteri with the Greek Assyrtiko and the French Sauvignon Blanc. All the three varieties were blended after vinification in stainless steel tanks and aged without any oak influence.

Clear, pale yellow in colour, brilliant hue with some viscosity on the rims. The nose offers intense aromas of white flowers, peaches, pomelo and nectarine, paired with some green apple skins, tropical fruit, passion fruit, melon, pineapple and elderflower, all framed with grass notes. There is a lovely tangy freshness, some chalky, textural elements while the blend adds an extra element of complexity and, I dare say, class. Not your usual Xynisteri but it honours the regional style. Balanced with some weight and creaminess from lees aging, and a long finish. Enjoy chilled, with asparagus risotto, seafood, chicken garlic pizza or piccata. €15

2022 Askon Art, Mavros(e) Okeanos, Pitsilia, ABV 12.5%

A very seductive wine: Syrah 70% and the local Maratheftiko 30% produce this gastro rosé. Limited quantities, around 2,000 bottles were produced from high altitude vineyards. Clear, brilliant, light copper, onion skin colour, more cherries and wild red berries burst on the nose, strawberries dipped in black pepper, along with raw pomegranate, red plum, pink grapefruit and a bit of wet stone minerality, sage, mint and spices. The palate is radiant, fresh with pleasant acidity, and very expressive, with all of the signature elements of the region, the ethereal character, the saline, up-front tannic structure and more cherries and spice along with juicy raspberry to the finish. Enjoy as an aperitif or with a charcuterie platter, sashimi or steak tartare, burger with hummus and aubergine dip, pasta Primavera, grilled halloumi cheese. €15

2021 Askon Art Krama Dry Red, Single Vineyard Maratheftiko – Syrah Barel aged, Pitsilia, ABV 13.5%

The rare Cypriot Maratheftiko meets the French Syrah, at 50% share each. The blend is first vinified in stainless steel tanks before mixing. It has a thick and dense colour, deep purple hue, but when you put your nose in the glass fresh red and black fruit comes to mind with slight toast. The fruit is interwoven with dark cherry and red plum, exotic spice and forest floor. Medium to full-bodied, gorgeous, chalky tannins, juicy acidity, dark fruit and coffee to the finish with useful cinnamon tones. Excellent choice for lamb kleftiko or osso buco, grilled barbecued meats, classic cassoulet or braised lamb with radishes and mint. €15

2023 Askon Art, Two Queens, Vasilissa – Xynisteri, Pitsilia, ABV 12%

The Two Queens (Dio Vasilisses) refers firstly to the blend of the local varieties Vasilissa and Xynisteri. Two is the key word. It also refers to the fact that both varieties are harvested at the same time and are cofermented with two days of cold extraction, two days fermentation with skin contact, two months ageing in new American barrel of 225 liters with the fine lees, two months of maturation in the bottle. The wine has a bright golden colour with intense aromas of candied citrus, ripe, pink grapefruit, quince, peach, floral with lots of jasmine, followed by lifted aromas of passion fruit, peach notes, vanilla and sweet coconut. Medium-bodied, refreshing acidity with underlying crispy, chalk notes to the lingering lime finish. Excellent with pasta with tomato sauce and goat cheese or pesto sauce, grilled, chicken with mango, or vegetable Thai red curry. €25

2023 Black Widow, Yiannoudi – Maratheftiko, Pitsilia, ABV 14%

There is a similar theme with Black Widow red (Mavri Hira), the blend of two indigenous varieties, Yiannoudi and Maratheftiko. After vinification the wine is aged for 12 months in new oak barrels. A thrill to experience, intense and elegant, beautifully articulated to age. Ruby red colour, aromas of blackberry, dark cherry, plum and cassis leap from the glass with an underscore of dark earth. The palate is muscular, yet refined, rich with focussed core of fresh, dark fruit – blackberry, black plum and dark cherry enveloped in tannins that lend weighty grip without overpowering. Lifting notes of berry jam runs along through the finish, interplaying with hints of cedar, fresh leather and sage that echo long on finish. Pair with wild mushroom risotto, blue cheese burger, slow-cooked roast beef or roast rack of lamb with rosemary and garlic. €25

Askas winery also produces grape distillates or Marcs, typical Zivania, from old vines of 60 years or more of the indigenous Mavro and Xynisteri varietals two of them with aromatics. All three come in 200ml bottle size.

Askas Winery and Pernia Restaurant. Tel: +357 99 414016, [email protected]