Instagrammable style matched by substance

There’s something about shopping with a young teenager that works up an appetite you didn’t know you had. After a few hours of hopping between stores with my goddaughter (who was, of course, on a mission to find the “perfect” outfit for a party I wasn’t even invited to), we found ourselves craving something satisfying, familiar and preferably carby. Italian food seemed to fit the bill perfectly.

We had clocked Al Dente, perched stylishly inside the Larnaca mall, earlier in the day – its decorative touches were impossible to ignore. Cascading wisteria flowers hang from the ceiling like a scene from a Tuscan dream, soft lighting reflects off a display wall filled with bottles in every shade of the rainbow, and the floor boasts traditional Italian tiling. Even the faux baroque arches did their bit to transport us to a trattoria somewhere in Florence. A little theatrical? Sure. But it works.

We’ve all been seduced by a good-looking restaurant before, only to be let down by the menu. So yes, I’ll admit I was sceptical. Was this one of those aesthetically driven, style-over-substance spots where the food comes a distant second to Instagrammability? Spoiler alert: I was pleasantly surprised.

We were shown to our table quickly, and here’s where Al Dente immediately scored points. Rather than leaving us waiting while one lone waiter juggled an entire section, our service was handled by a trio of staff who seamlessly tag-teamed the table. Each time we had a request – another glass, a question about the menu, an extra fork – someone was there in moments.

We started with the Focaccia con Formaggio, which came to the table warm and generously topped with both mozzarella and smoked cheese. Crispy edges, gooey middle – basically what you want garlic bread to be, but elevated. Alongside it, we shared the Spadellata di Funghi, a rich, velvety mix of sautéed wild mushrooms, pancetta and not one, not two, but four cheeses. The whole thing was served in a shell made entirely of cheese. That’s right, a cheese bowl. My goddaughter let out an audible “Yesss” when it arrived, which I took as a good sign.

Then came the mains. I went for the Risotto con Pollo, a creamy, earthy number filled with chicken, mushrooms, black olives and green peppers. I asked for a drizzle of truffle oil on top (I know, I know) and they didn’t bat an eye – they just brought it. It was rich, comforting and incredibly moreish. Across the table, the Penne al Tartufo Bianco was inducing an mmmm sound from my partner, with just the right amount of truffle to make you feel like you’re indulging without going full perfumery. And the Tagliatelle alla Bolognese con Funghi had that slow-cooked depth of flavour that makes you wonder if someone’s nonna is secretly in the kitchen.

We paired everything with a glass (well, two) of Chardonnay from Kyperounda winery, which turned out to be a perfect match for the creaminess of the dishes. Crisp, slightly buttery and fruity at the same time, and local – what more could you want?

Portion sizes? Let’s just say no one left hungry. In fact, we all sat back at the end of the meal doing that half-satisfied, half-defeated sigh you do when your tastebuds say “more!” but your waistband says “please, no.”

Now, is Al Dente the best Italian I’ve ever had? Probably not. But it’s good. Really good. And more importantly, it’s consistent, generous and delivers what you hope it will when you first walk through the door: an escape into a little Italian fantasy for an hour or two, right in the middle of a mall.

Would I go again? Without hesitation. And judging by my goddaughter’s enthusiastic declaration that this is now her favourite restaurant in the mall, I think I might not have a choice.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Italian

WHERE Al Dente, Metropolitan Mall, Larnaca (there is also a branch on Finikoudes)

WHEN Daily 9.30am-10.30pm

CONTACT 24 040040

HOW MUCH Spadellata di Funghi, Focaccia €8.90, pizzas from €13.40, pastas from €11.90