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A springtime jaunt through Machairochoria villages

feature paul main the wine producing village of farmakas
The wine producing village of Farmakas

A group of villages in the Nicosia district are keeping their timeless traditions alive, especially at Easter

By Paul Lambis

Traditional rituals and a wide range of festivals characterise rural life in Cyprus, even if it is their appeal to the tourist industry and media that helps keep them alive. The island’s strong agricultural past has resulted in a plethora of festivals honouring the harvest, food, culture, and works of God, either directly, or through the prayers and intercessions of Jesus Christ, Virgin Mary, a specific saint, or saints. The traditional activities of these areas in which these festivals are held are often mirrored in them.

Religious activity plays a far less role in daily life for most Cypriots in the 21st century, particularly those who live in more commercial areas. Rural residents, on the other hand, are often more religious and try their best to preserve and maintain old traditions and practices.

The natural beauty of Cyprus is a haven for mindfulness. Heading out towards the Machairochoria – a collection of quaint villages in Nicosia’s countryside that respect and nurture timeless traditions – will help relieve tension and allow one to reconnect with oneself and Mother Nature herself, especially at Easter.

feature paul machairas monastery
Machairas Monsatery

Experiencing the rituals of Orthodox Easter – the most important religious festival in the Orthodox calendar that commemorates Jesus’ resurrection – in the mountainous and wine producing village of Farmakas, the surrounding villages of Gourri, Lazanias, Machairas, Kampi, and Fikardou, exude charm. At first glance, there are many magnificent attractions dotted throughout the Nicosia countryside, but it is one’s subjective interpretation of the fascinating stone-built architecture lining the narrow, cobbled streets, rich heritage and vibrant culture that makes it memorable.

It is obvious that the villages’ main overall objective is to protect the island’s intangible heritage, such as Cypriot traditions, rituals, festive events, knowledge and skills associated with the production of traditional crafts and practices, especially those concerning nature.

feature paul gourri is a popular place for countryside walks
Gourri is a popular place for countryside walks

“Our villages are considered the soul of our community,” says Theodoros Kringou, president of Nicosia Tourism Board. “These sites have become sustainable architectural treasures waiting to be discovered, with everything planned to minimise the ecological footprint, therefore contributing to the birth of new practises in the tourist business.”

According to Kringou, agrotourism has grown in importance in Cyprus tourism, attracting an increasing number of visitors each year, and enticing those who have previously visited to return, thanks to the unique experience of nature and the island’s historic villages.

“For the past two decades, the government, with the support of the European Union, has encouraged the rehabilitation and conversion of old traditional houses in villages into modest housing units,” Kringou told the Cyprus Mail. “This effort promotes the idea of ecological and sustainability while also contributing to the development of the villages. It is all about providing a one-of-a-kind holiday experience while also supporting local communities.”

As one takes in the scents of nature and the breath-taking scenery, visits ancient and modern monasteries, museums of folkloric art, vineyards preserving traditional winemaking techniques, travels along nature trails, admires archaeological monuments, and lifts one’s spirits with a truly rural experience, food remains the most important aspect of Cypriot life.

Although there is no single style of Cypriot cookery due to regional diversity, Cypriots everywhere have a fondness for flaounes during Easter, and there is often a friendly rivalry amongst households over whose pies have won the annual flaouna bake-off.

feature paul easter staple flaounes
Flaounes, an Easter staple

During Holy Week, Machairochoria’s bustling neighbourhoods are deserted, not from the ravages of time, but because every household is hard at work mastering Cyprus’ sweet and savoury staple delicacy. The flaounes recipe has been passed down through the generations and is another tradition that encourages the family to come together to knead the dough, grate the cheese, chop the mint, add the ‘secret’ herbs and spices, roll out the airy dough into perfect circles, add the creamy cheese filling, fold the flaounes into triangular or rectangular shapes, fire up the wood in the outdoor clay oven, and bake until golden brown. Making flaounes is one of those moments when, despite all the effort and preparation, you grow to enjoy the art of cooking and even learn a few new tricks along the way. It is not a simple dish to make, but the result is worth the effort.

feature paul red eggs dyed with beetroot juice
Red eggs dyed with beetroot juice

The tradition of dyeing eggs is a considerably more creative adventure than a store-bought kit. The entire procedure is made more enjoyable and interactive by using beetroot juice as a natural dye and decorating with flowers or leaf prints.

Despite the emotional marathon of Holy Week’s customs, traditions, late-night church services, and religious rituals, the locals are never too tired on Easter Sunday to engage in the festivities in their villages, where there is usually an after-party. Locals of Farmakas congregate outside the main church to sing a classic folk song about a small bird (the origins of the song are unknown), rousing the entire village with their music, playing games, eating, drinking and celebrating the resurrection in typical Cypriot style.

Regardless of which village in the Machairochoria you visit this Easter, a table will be set with lovingly prepared dishes, beautifully dyed red eggs, fluffy flaounes, white wine made from the Cypriot black grape variety Mavro Ampelisimo, and an authentically Cypriot outdoor adventure that will plunge one into a new lifestyle that encourages respect and goodwill towards the island’s natural surroundings.

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