What’s Eaten Where: San Marino: rich people and even richer desserts

Tiny? Yes. Poor? No. Despite its size, San Marino is amongst the richest countries in the world: the 15^th most prosperous in terms of per-capita GDP, according to recent World Bank reports. Believed to be the planet’s oldest surviving republic, this microstate was founded in the year 301 by Marinus, a Christian stonemason fleeing religious persecution. Today, it’s home to just 33,562 people, collectively known as the Sammarinese.

Given its picturesque mountain location, quirky history, and warm weather it’s a popular visitor destination: upwards of three million per year at the last count. Many come to see the iconic Three Towers, located on the three peaks of Monte Titano in San Marino city, the capital. But others are happy just wandering the mediaeval streets, soaking in the unique atmosphere and sampling the nation’s delectable dishes…

Sammarinese cuisine may draw heavily from Italy, but there are more than a few dishes that stand out. Local fare includes soups such as fagioli con le cotiche, a rich tomato-based soup made with corlotti beans, pork rind, celery, onion and garlic; and pasta e ceci, a chickpea and noodle concoction that’s heavy on the garlic and rosemary.

San Marino’s primary agricultural product is cheese: ricotta, squacquerone, nuvoletta, and mozzarella crop up in many a dish. Nidi di rondine is a baked pasta dish laden with smoked ham and beef in a rich tomato sauce, all smothered in parmesan. And the local passatelli (pasta made from breadcrumbs, egg, nutmeg, chicken broth and cheese) also features a fair amount of hard cheese – usually parmesan once more.

In a nod to the surrounding countryside, the menu features a fair bit of game: roasted rabbit is a particularly popular, usually served with braised fennel. But it’s the desserts rather than the main courses that – quiet literally – take the cake in San Marino…

A tribute to the iconic Three Towers, the iconic torta tre monti consists of thin waffled wafers layered with chocolate or hazelnut crème and covered in chocolate fondant. Torta titano, inspired by San Marino’s central mountain, is another scrumptious Sammarinese confection: tiers of biscuit, hazelnuts, chocolate, cream and coffee. There’s also verretta, a dessert of hazelnuts, praline and chocolate wafers; cacciatello, a crème caramel-like pudding of milk, sugar and eggs; and zuppa di ciliegie, cherries stewed in sweetened red wine and served on white bread…