Behind an Alpha Estate bottle…

Fine wines from one of the leading wineries in Greece

For some reason, when I taste Greek wines my mind goes back to 80s London with whites and reds from Demestica and Tsantalis and drink-if-you-dare Retsina. Things have changed and Greek wines have improved significantly in quality. Tsantalis and Achaia now produce some very good wines, plus there is also Alpha Estate.

Built on a high plateau surrounded by mountains on three sides (and not far from a ski resort), Alpha Estate produces 650,000 bottles annually, 35 per cent of them for export. The estate grows both international and Greek varietals. Assyrtiko, Malagouzia, and Xinomavro are the gifts of Dionysus, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, even Tannat are the gifts of the French.

The 220 hectares of vineyards are at 600-700m, and are surrounded by the mountains of Voras, Vitsi and Vemio, all above 2,000m. It enjoys a microclimate of fairly stable weather with cool nights, two large lakes nearby to temper Macedonia’s summer heat and dry conditions as the grapes ripen – conditions that assure good acidity for the wines. The soil is very sandy so phylloxera can’t survive, which allows the planting of ungrafted vines.

At Alpha they use satellite surveillance, controlled with a smartphone, to determine when each block of vineyard is ready for picking. Harvest is done entirely by hand. In the winery, a stately building finished in red terra cotta, there is a system for refreshing the air in the underground cellars three times a day with stones under the barrels to help control humidity. Sustainability is a focus; 65 per cent of the energy used by the winery is solar. The estate does not apply chemicals in the vineyards, nor use them during winemaking to produce its full-bodied yet elegant reds for example.

For many wine lovers, it is top of their list to tour the winery and walk the vineyards of the north-western corner of Macedonian Greece. Although a pioneer, with only 20 vintages on the market, it has received international recognition from Jancis Robinson, Robert Parker and numerous Decanter World Wine Awards and the London International Wine and Spirits Competition. All solidified, Alpha Estate as one of the best wineries on the world wine map. For many of us, the best reward lies in the glass.

Wines of the week

2022 Alpha Estate Malagouzia, Single Vineyard Turtles, PGI Florina, ABV 13%
There is terrific balance in this Malagousia, with hints of exotic pith setting off the clean racy fruit. A lovely fresh alternative to Sauvignon and other aromatic varieties. This is a world class, highly original dry, aromatic wine, with heaps of concentration and excellent balance. Perfect on its own or served with Greek veg or lighter Asian dishes. €14.50

2021 Alpha Estate Assyrtiko, Single Block Ayia Kyriaki, PGI Florina, ABV 13%
One of the best Assyrtiko in mainland Greece with an intense nose with aromas of citrus fruits, peach and some stony minerals. A full and elegant mouthfeel. A well-structured, balanced wine with a rich texture and an extremely long finish. This wine will be even more impressive and tastier after three to four years. For oysters, lobster and Mediterranean grilled fish, with some age why not with lamb with lemon. €22

2022 Alpha Estate Ecosystem, Sauvignon Blanc Fumé, Single Block Kaliva, PGI Florina, ABV 13%
Impressive and powerful with an intense nose with aromas of citrus fruits, peach and some stony minerals. A full and elegant mouthfeel. A well-structured, balanced wine with a rich texture and an extremely long finish. Even more impressive: after three to four years, this wine will be even tastier. Oaky Sauvignon loves chicken in rich creamy sauces or with pasta, smoked fish, raw shellfish and crustaceans. €22.50

2022 Alpha Estate Ecosystem Chardonnay Single Block Tramonto, PGI Florina ABV 13%
Gorgeous scents of vanilla, spring flowers and toasted nuts. Grip from the oak giving a sinewy backbone to the citrus peel and stone fruit core. This is very subtle wine. The balance between oak, fruit and acidity is exceptional. Perhaps most noteworthy is the perfect weight, not too heavy but with plenty of concentration and complexity. The finish is persistent and beautifully clean. Perfect with a wide range of fish and meat that calls for flavour and subtlety. €22

2019 Alpha Estate Ecosystem Xinomavro Reserve Old Vines, PDO Amyndeon ABV 14%
This flagship Xinomavro from Amyndeo region is sourced from old ungrafted vines, giving very low yields and thus dense fruit. Alpha Reserve possesses a deep ruby colour, aromatic complexity of plums, cherries and tomato-like vegetal character, backed up by firm, yet ripe tannins, freshness and high acidity. It really needs food to show its best, try with beef stew or grilled meats. €28

2019 Alpha Estate Ecosystem Tannat, PGI Florina, ABV 14.5%
A rich, full red wine equally suited for ageing or for immediate enjoyment. Tannic, prolific and long lasting in the mouth, you will be rewarded whenever opened. Serve with meat-centric dishes. €28

2021 Alpha Estate Ecosystem Pinot Noir, Single Block Strofi, PGI Florina ABV 14.5%
If Pinot Noir was born and raised in the cold, northern edge of the French vineyards (Burgundy, Alsace), then it is not surprising that Amynteo has acclimated so well. The Pinot Noir Domaine Alpha is a modern, elegant wine with beautiful aromas and pronounced acidity. An alluring bouquet of complex aromas characterised by wild cherries, spices and plums, raspberries, and cocoa notes. Fans of the famous Burgundian variety and of good red wine, you should try. Excellent with grilled meats and mushroom risotto. €27

2020 Ktima Alpha Red, SMX, PGI Florina, ABV 14.5%
Syrah 60%, Xinomavro 20%, Merlot 20%. The flagship wine of Alpha Estate with pretty aromas dominated by smoky blueberry Syrah and plum and red cherry Merlot. Nice toasty oak and citrus peel. Lovely soft blend of medium bodied cherry, plum and blue fruit. There is some sweetness, but it never cloys. It’s all surrounded by soft tannin and crisp acidity. Long lingering finish. Excellent with rib recipes, casserole, grilled lamb or steak. €28

Imported and distributed by La Maison du Vin Tel 25 736220