Ribs chief draw at venue of mixed impressions

Scanning online reviews, as you do, to find somewhere new to go, we came across a place whose website showed good humour, smoked meat and tantalising descriptions of the food. We needed no further persuasion, AJ’s Gourmet Kitchen it was.

But if we hadn’t been specifically looking for it, we might have walked right past. Tucked away behind another shop with only a small sign pointing the way, it’s easy to miss. That isn’t a dealbreaker – some of the best food can be found in hidden gems – but the initial challenge of simply locating the place set the tone for what would turn out to be an afternoon of mixed impressions.

We stepped inside to find… no one. The dining area was empty, and there was no immediate sign of staff. A glance toward the kitchen revealed someone working behind a glass screen, but they didn’t acknowledge us. Not sure of the protocol, we took a seat and waited. After a few minutes, still no sign of service, so we gave a tentative tap on the glass. Eventually, the man from the kitchen – who turned out to be the owner – emerged with menus in hand. He was friendly, asking how we’d heard about the place, but the delayed welcome left us feeling a little unsure of what to expect.

Decor-wise, AJ’s has personality. The walls are dotted with humorous and interesting artwork that gave us a few laughs, and the seating area is centred around a large communal-style island table, dressed up with greenery and an overhead light. While the concept was visually appealing, I did wonder if the light, which hung fairly low, might be a bit too intense when switched on. Still, it added to the quirky charm of the place.

The menu itself was a highlight – playfully written and packed with tempting options. Burgers (including vegan), ribs, sandwiches and other comfort food staples were described with a good dose of humour, making the decision process harder than expected. Sensing my indecision, the owner stepped in with a recommendation: the ribs. He spoke with real passion about how they were smoked for six and a half hours and glazed in a signature sauce, making them a standout dish. Sold. We also ordered a burger to share.

Before the mains arrived, we were given a small amuse-bouche in the form of an aranicini. It was filled with provolone, mushroom, homemade pesto and coated in parsley dust, It was a nice touch, adding a bit of unexpected hospitality to the meal. That said, there was a bit too much going on and I felt like none of the flavours particularly stood out.

When the ribs arrived, they certainly looked impressive. Large, generously coated in sauce, and exactly as promised – fall-off-the-bone tender. The meat practically melted away with each bite. The barbecue sauce had a solid balance – not overly sweet, not too tangy – just the right kind of sticky, smoky goodness you want from ribs. Messy? Absolutely. But that’s part of the fun.

The burger, on the other hand, was just… okay. Not bad, but not remarkable. It didn’t have that extra punch of seasoning or that special something that makes a burger memorable. The chips, however, were pretty good, crispy and well-seasoned, and the coleslaw, while a little different from the usual, was something my partner really enjoyed.

When we asked about desserts, we were told there wasn’t a menu, but that he usually gives one complimentary. That’s a nice touch, and true to his word, he brought over a little cocoa-based halva square drizzled in syrup. While the effort was appreciated, the dessert itself didn’t do much for me. It was a bit bland aside from the syrup, and I found myself wishing for something more classic. To be fair though, after those monstrous ribs, a decadent dessert would have been tough to handle.

By the end of the meal, we were full but not entirely convinced. The ribs were excellent. The hospitality, while a little slow to start, was ultimately friendly and welcoming. But, the burger didn’t have that wow factor I was hoping for, the dessert underwhelming, and the overall experience, while pleasant, didn’t quite hit that ‘must-return-soon’ level.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Ribs, burgers

WHERE AJ’s Gourmet Kitchen, Grigori Afxentiou, Larnaca 6021

WHEN Tuesday-Saturday: 1-10.30pm, Sunday 1-8pm

CONTACT 95 748718

HOW MUCH burgers from €9, ribs €19.50