August marks the season for arkatenos, a traditional soughdough bread made from fermented chickpeas, to be baked mostly in Paphos and Limassol, scholar Anna Tselepou said on Wednesday.
Tselepou added that the process began with “arkatis”, a traditional leaven produced by fermenting chickpeas in hot water.
“Arkatis, which apparently comes from the word ‘ergati’ (worker), is a leaven produced by fermenting chickpeas in hot water,” she told the Cyprus News Agency.
The foam that formed on the surface during the fermentation was collected and used to prepare the dough.
“The high temperatures in August were particularly suitable for making arkatis, which helped establish the month as the traditional period for kneading arkatenos,” she said.
Women in villages in Paphos and Limassol used the sourdough to make breads and buns, mainly for weddings, baptisms and other celebrations.
The baked goods were also offered to guests as part of the tradition of hospitality. The preparation of arkatis was accompanied by various beliefs and customs.
Some women kept parts of the process secret, with knowledge passed down from one generation to the next.
The dough was traditionally prepared with flour and spices including mastic, mahlepi and nutmeg, giving arkatenos their distinctive flavour.
The tradition formed part of village life and reflected the role of women in preserving local food practices.
While the custom is less common today, arkatenos remain part of the culinary heritage of Paphos and other rural areas of Cyprus.
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