What’s Eaten Where: Tarn, France

Named for the river that runs through it, Tarn is one of the most beautiful regions of France – a place of pastoral valleys, rolling hills, and even a few mountains. Today, Tarn is eminently peaceful: a place which emphasises good living – and even greater wine!

Fresh, quality produce is the order of the day, and many locals still buy direct from the grower. In the larger population centres farmers’ markets take place two or three times a week, and are just the place to pick up the truffles, hams, veal, cheeses, fruits and veggies you need to concoct a delectable dish à la Tarn…

In the north of the region, it’s all about hearty meals and deep flavours: on the limestone plateau of the Causses, the truffle oaks grow; in the forests of Grésigne, Sivens and Bouysse you’ll find hearty mushrooms. Wild boar abounds: civet de sanglier (wild boar stew) is a regional speciality, made with chunks of meat; handfuls of carrots, onions, shallots and garlic; flavoured with laurel, thyme and parsley; and liberally laced with both strong local brandy and deep red wine.

In the north-east, it’s the veal of Aveyron and Ségala that’s the speciality, and blanquette de veau is a favourite. A ragout in which neither meat nor veg or browned (hence blanquette), this delicious dish consists of tender veal, diced veggies (usually carrots, mushrooms, and onions), and a good dollop of cream, all simmered in broth for a couple of hours before being served with rice or potatoes.

And in the south, especially around Castres, it’s all about the mesturets. Popular for centuries, and once wrapped in vine or fig tree leaves, these pumpkin pancakes have long been a winter favourite – perfect when there was no other fresh fruit to be found. Made with cooked pumpkin (drained and left overnight), grated orange and lemon zest, and a dense dough, this fried treat is covered in sugar – a good shot of energy for the farmer on the go!

Overall, however, the dish that typifies the entire region is cassoulet: a rich bean and meat confection with tonnes of root vegetables, all stewed for hours in a casserole and enjoyed with a hearty red…