Old meets new at Makarounas winery

Theodoros Makarounas entered the winemaking scene in 2017 with two labels, his white and rosé. The red followed in 2018. Still young and independent, he wanted to make wine the way he loves to by integrating old tradition with a new approach. Recent tastings have showed that he is accomplishing that.

Letymbou village is famous for its vineyards, which is something that inspired Theodoros to build his modern boutique winery found just outside the village near his vineyards. And as in most cases, the inspiration and drive derived from his family. He is the fourth generation to make wine, but the first who dared to promote them on a commercial basis.

His 2020 releases have already been reviewed so let’s taste some of his older vintages in the market.

2019 Makarounas Winery Spourtiko, P.G.I. Pafos, Abv 10.5%

Typical stainless-steel vinification, this light bodied variety is proving that it can age for a year more. Its straw yellow colour with faint greenish highlights leads us into a floral fragrance of jasmine and lemon blossoms and a fruity sensation of citrus – lime and tangerine – of yellow fruit – apricot and guava – plus some tropical and honeyed notes. The extra ageing added hints of petrol often found in Riesling. Lithe and lean, the flavour is dry with good acidity and is persistent and delicately mineral with a crisp, wet-stone, grapefruit and green almon bitterness at the finish. Light in alcohol, this is perfect as a lunch-time aperitif or with light hors d’oeuvres, fried fish and green salads. €12

2019 Makarounas Winery Sauvignon Blanc, Single Vineyard, P.G.I. Pafos, Abv 12%

Sourced from a single vineyard in Ftena, I found this masterful white to be one of the best Sauvignon Blancs I have tasted so far this year. It benefited from an extra year of ageing and by using a small vineyard parcel this winery has crafted a wine that spoke of sunshine and exceptional fruit. Six months on its lees gives the necessary complexity. Aromas of green apple, citrus, chamomile and tropical notes of pineapple and melon while hints of lime create a sensuousness that works well with grassy notes followed by just-ripe peach and mango. Tinges of sunflower linger on the tongue through the finish. This wine is primarily fermented in stainless steel. The mid-palate shows a lively acidity and soft floral notes leading to a pleasingly persistent finish that would wrap nicely around a lemon-accented and herb dusted roast chicken and make a tremendously good pairing. €14

2019 Makarounas Winery, Vasilissa, Single Vineyard, P.G.I. Pafos, Abv 12%

Produced from a single vineyard too, from young vines in the area of Katapani on a clay-limestone slope. The wine is sleek and nicely balanced, fresh with vivid aromas of white flowers, ripe melon, and citrus fruit with rich, zesty flavours of pink grapefruit, melon and guava leading to a long, crisp finish buoyed by bright acidity and refreshing citrus and mineral tones. Irresistible now, this beautiful Vasilissa will age gracefully for the next three to five years and beautifully accompany seafood, poultry, vegetables and salad dishes. €14

2019 Makarounas Winery, En Archi, P.G.I. Pafos, Abv 13%

This is a great value for money summer red. Made from Cabernet Franc and a small percentage of Shiraz, stainless-steel vinification followed by malolactic fermentation, it presents a purple colour with red ruby notes. The nose offers elegant aromas of spices and fresh herbs of thyme and rosemary, red berries, cherries, cassis, raspberries with layers of stewed prunes. Medium-bodied, the mouthfeel is rich with cherry and raspberry flavours and notes of black pepper and oregano. The finish is bright and fresh with finely grained tannins. This versatile wine is fantastic paired with rich meat dishes such as Latin dishes with heat and a little kick such as enchiladas or moles, and lamb dishes and tomato-based pasta sauces. Additionally, this wine can pair well with standard Cypriot barbecue. €8.50

2018 Makarounas Winery Single Vineyard Maratheftiko, P.G.I. Pafos, Abv 13%

Another single vineyard from the area called Mosfiles, from ungrafted vines on a slope of clay rich, sandy and limestone-based soils. The vines are 12 years old. Following fermentation, the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and then is kept in new and used French oak for 12 months. The wine is a medium to deep garnet-purple in colour and opens with enticing aromas of black cherry, roasted coffee and vanilla beans. It is more fruit forward with dark plums coming to the fore. Juicier in the mouth with more red fruit flavours, the palate is seductively plush and layered with plenty of freshness, finishing with a spicy kick. You will love this wine with spaghetti and meatballs, roast lamb or oven baked Keftiko style or roasted meatloaf, roast duck or Beef Wellington. €16

2019 Makarounas Winery Single Vineyard Yiannoudi, Abv 13%

The Yiannoudi is sourced from a single vineyard in Yomarkaris Hill from ungrafted vines planted in crystal gypsum and sandstone soil. Theodoros experiments with whole bunch fermentation and wild ferment – meaning using the indigenous yeast for the fermentation. It is then kept for at least one year in new and used French oak, unfined and unfiltered keeping its original character. Beautiful, deep colour, aromatically mysterious like a great hand of cards played close to the vest. Black olive, bay leaf, cold earth, cured meat, black fruit with hints of chocolate and tobacco. Full-bodied but not heavy. The wine is expressive and pleasurable across the palate, showing impeccable balance and remaining slightly funky before ending with a remarkably long finish. Firm tannins and spicy finish. It will be great with grilled or roast beef, olive crusted lamb with bean stew, pork and taro stew. €18

Makarounas winery, Letymbou, Tel: 99 791915, www.makarounaswinery.com, [email protected], Distributed by Bottles Wine & Spirits, Tel: 25 430990, www.bottles.com.cy