Ethos Vin, Paphos

There have long been wine bars in Paphos, but now there is Ethos Vin, located in a beautiful stone building in the historical part of the Old Town with quite possibly the most beautiful interior of any restaurant in Paphos. The main room is vast with a central bar and lots of tables and booths dotted around – all very New York! It is all beautifully styled, and a lot of money has been spent on a restoration that took many years. When it opened, we visited and had a great evening. We meant to go back after everything settled down with the rush, so we were horrified to see online that it recently celebrated its one-year anniversary. Where does time go?

On a mid-week warm evening, we were delighted to return, but this time elected to sit in the small courtyard garden. The area, with its high walls and wrought-iron gates looking onto a pedestrianised street, was remarkably peaceful. As darkness fell, the courtyard was even more impressive, with all the plants lit up. As the temperature fell, the staff lit the outdoor heaters to complete the perfect setting.

To start, we were asked about our drink choices, and a very affable sommelier named Genadi arrived at our table. Temporarily, I have given up alcohol, so I enquired about mocktails, which I could not see on their menu but are evidently available. The sommelier recommended a glass of non-alcoholic wine, which was surprisingly good. For proper wine lovers, you have found your new home with a list featuring 250 wines priced from €30 to €8,000. Cocktail fans are also well catered for with a choice of over 30.

We then perused the menu, which, if I am honest, is a little limited. It is based on the Mediterranean idea of sharing various, which is rapidly becoming my favourite way to dine. The first dish to arrive was the Beef Carpaccio, a firm favourite, and this one did not disappoint. On the menu, it just said carpaccio with a truffle emulsion, walnuts and rucola. Still, it was so much more, topped with parmesan cheese, creating the perfect balance of contrasting textures and complementary flavours. The rich cheese brought through the subtle flavours of the raw meat.

We also started with another dish, Burrata with Red Peppers, which was definitely our favourite of the two. The burrata was served with the tastiest roasted red peppers I have ever had, together with herb dressing and pine nuts. As the burrata melted in your mouth, the peppers provide a real kick, offering a contrast of creamy, smoky and sweet flavours. We enjoyed both dishes with a selection of sourdough breads, an additional €5.

It was hard to choose the main courses, as there were many tempting options, but in the end, we went for the Sea Bass and Chicken. The generous fillet of sea bass was served on a small bed of spinach and mussels with a divine creamy sauce, which offered the perfect balance to the fish, which was luminous, moist and pristine. The chicken came with a buttermilk sauce and some leeks. We found it a little bland and on the small side, but this could have been after the explosion of flavours in our first three dishes.

We certainly ended the meal on a high note with a Silky Chocolate Mousse, one of only two desserts available, the other being a Lime and Raspberry Cheesecake. After much deliberation, we decided to go for the ‘healthy option’ with just the one rich dark mousse made with 60 per cent chocolate. A cloud-like mousse that literally melted into a velvet wave of deep cocoa richness – pure indulgence and unbelievably rich.

Service was efficient throughout, and at the end of the meal, we enjoyed chatting to the charismatic assistant manager, Demetris, who told us about the evenings with live music. If music is not your thing, it is probably wise to double-check whether there is a live performance on the night you are going. While we were there for the food, several guests had just popped in to enjoy a glass of wine or a cocktail. They also offer a selection of various platters to have on the side.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Modern Mediterranean

WHERE 16 Kosta Karnavalou, Paphos Old Town

WHEN Monday to Thursday and Sun 6pm-1am. Friday and Saturday 6pm-1.30am

CONTACT 26 933000 Booking essential

PRICE Dips €7, small plates from €16, Pinsa €20, Main dishes from €22, Desserts €14