Review: Pandora, Nicosia

Hesiod claimed that after she opened her ‘box’ Pandora, gifted her by Zeus, she left only hope inside, introducing evil of all kinds to the world. But this is not something Charis Charalambous and his Sofocles Savvides had to worry about when lockdown struck; that was the period they had set aside for renovating and ameliorating their premier outlet in Ayios Antonios, Nicosia.

And when those restaurants that survived were developing ‘take-aways’ and ‘carry-outs’ the management at Pandora were polishing their supply line because they had been at the forefront of the ‘come in, and walk out with your meal’ business for years. What is more, you can see what you are getting in their huge steaming trays of fish, fowl, pork, lamb and beef in all its forms: chops, loins, whole roast chickens, sweet and sours, chilli, Thai, with whatever you fancy to accompany it in vegetable form sitting behind the glass display cabinets. Vegetarians and vegans not forgotten – pulses, beans, stuffed vegetables. You don’t need a menu just an appetite.

That’s just the cooked side which includes fresh tureens of home-made soups and what is a sine qua non for hot soup? What else but hot fresh bread, in the production of which Pandora leads the entire island. I am currently enamoured with its latest offer: the Lavash, it remains fresh to the last crumb. Before that I was for the Monastery loaf.

Pandora is a bakery with a ‘take-away’ attached. Every variety of bread is there and you may taste it by taking it to the sandwich bar where they will fill your choice of loaf or roll with whatever filling you want: ham, cheeses, smoked salmon etc – choose your own dressing or make it up yourself. The salad bar invites the customer to select a large or smaller container with up to twenty different fresh ingredients. Don’t mention the cakes and sweets, the company makes its own ice cream and sorbets at their central catering premises along with hand-made chocolates – ice cream for the summer, chocolates for the winter. Cabinets containing all dairy products fruit juices, soft drinks; trays of Sushi from Sushi La, and an energetic Barista behind his bar to display is knowledge and skills.

Apart from the outstanding food and professionalism, a striking feature of the company, which employs over 250 staff in their seven shops and other catering enterprises, is the quality of service. A positive indication of good management is smiling, attentive, pleasant staff – all graduates of Pandora Academy; nobody gets to work in one of their shops until they have passed through the training system. What a pity we can’t insist our public servants spend time with Pandora.

The management is hands-on: Sofocles is always hovering over the hot food counter ensuring the trays are replaced when running low and thinking of ways to refresh the products. And it is not unknown for Charis to be found kneading the dough at sunrise.

When normal life returns we will witness the Glitterati making their last call after clubbing until 02:00 hours – where else will you get that double espresso at that hour on a Sunday morning?

At a more reasonable hour we went for sweet and sour. These dishes always depend on the balance, either too sour for the Western taste or too sweet for the Oriental. Often both diners finish up with a large lump of batter enclosing a small piece of meat drenched in a pinkish, sweet, vinegary sauce; but not at Pandora. This dish is just right. The correct balance of snappy vegetables, crisp batter, lean, tender deep-fried chicken proved most satisfactory to the ageing palate. Well done Lakis.

A feature that abides with all my foreign visitors and relatives is the amazing sight of such a sophisticated enterprise opening 24 hours every day of the year. Nearly all leave with a Greek loaf to take back to a land where it is nigh impossible to find a shop open after 17:00 let alone on a Sunday or Public Holiday. I left with a good impression, and the sweet and sour chicken.

VITAL STATISICS

SPECIALTY Bread, baked products and take away hot food

WHERE 1194, Stasandrou, 1060, Nicosia, near Ayios Antonios.

CONTACT 22-267373, [email protected]

HOW MUCH Very reasonable