Restaurant review: Box-T, Nicosia

When it comes to eating out, I have come to the realisation that I am becoming less and less lenient as far as service is concerned. Food is very subjective, but, as long as the ingredients are fresh and there is an idea, even a basic one, behind the dishes I am served, I tend to look at what’s on my plate with curiosity, rather than with suspicion.

And that is precisely why my experience at Box-T in Aglandja, despite featuring a remarkably good selection of pub classics, was somewhat stained by bad service.

And bad service can change the mood around the table. That was exactly what happened when the chef refused – our waiter actually told us he used this exact word – to serve a simple halloumi in pita for one of my dining companions with stomach problems, simply because it did not feature on the menu and despite all the ingredients – two – being available.

Alas, after seeing how flabbergasted the situation left us, the waiter managed to convince him – and a waiter should never have to convince a chef – to fulfil our special request. After that our dinner continued without a hitch.

And that was a relief because the food featured at the pub was great in terms of quality and size.

The menu itself is actually not huge, but as far as I’m concerned, that is a plus point. Less dishes in the majority of cases means more focus on each individual entry.

I opted for a pulled pork pita with tzatziki and red onion and was pleasantly surprised by how the flavours mixed together.

Other dishes featured at the table included the King of Bavaria, a double burger sumptuously boasting a German sausage on top, a juicy and tender chicken souvlaki accompanied by an awesomely creamy mashed potato. I always give extra points for a good side dish, the detail that makes the difference, especially when the main is relatively simple so it elevates the dish.

But the real surprise was the vegetarian bao bun, a choice I would never go for, especially at a pub. Thankfully, one of my friends, more broad-minded than yours truly apparently – and also a vegetarian – made the unassuming choice and graciously offered me a bite. The flavours were so complex and rich that it made me think I should try more vegetarian options whenever I go out to eat. It reminded me of pad thai, but less intense and without the sometimes overwhelming umami aftertaste found in the staple Thai dish. A true revelation!

The decor is pretty basic, pub-style with plenty of TVs everywhere, perfect to watch sports.

There weren’t any games on when I visited the restaurant, but a selection of 80s classic rock songs that blared from the speakers more than made up for it.

All in all, Box-T is a solid choice when one craves the simple pleasures of the pub selection. The location is up and coming – there are three more bars and pubs a stone’s throw away – and there is a plenty of parking.

I hope next time I visit the chef will be less moody because, clearly, he knows what he is doing.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Pub food

WHERE Box-T, Larnakos Ave 114B, Aglantzia

WHEN 10am-1am Monday to Friday, 5pm-1am Saturday and Sunday

HOW MUCH €7 to €9 for starters, €11 to €22 for mains, €10 to €17 for burgers

CONTACT 77775550