Restaurant review: Mouson, Nicosia

While writing my last review, I promised myself to venture into places that are relatively unknown, I was dead set on “breaking” a place, so to speak. However, even if I still intend to, I could not pass the opportunity of writing about Mouson, a restaurant and red hot brunch spot that has become a favourite among foodies in Nicosia I’ve been wanting to try for a while.

Mouson’s location speaks volumes of its popularity, as the area around leafy Pindarou is home to several popular restaurants in the capital.

Four people at the table meant I could try out different dishes and the time of our reservation called for brunch, which is quickly becoming my favourite meal of the day. That might be the most middle-class thing I’ve ever written down, but I stand by it.

Nothing beats waking up late on a weekend knowing that you will be soon chomping on avocado, hollandaise sauce and sourdough bread, just to name a few brunch all-time darlings worldwide.

Eggs are a must at Mouson, so I went for the BBQ pulled pork entry, served with a brioche bun, poached eggs and crispy fried onions. Perhaps a tad too heavy for a late morning, I thought to myself after ordering. Not at all! The pulled pork was hearty, but a smaller quantity of meat on the bun meant it did not overpower the eggs, cooked to perfection, nor the onions, which added a hint of smokiness to the dish.

I also tried the soft-boiled egg coated in panko breadcrumbs with fresh avocado, crispy bacon on a toasted sourdough bread. Deep-frying an egg can prove tricky. Especially at brunch, where it takes centre stage, the risk of serving an egg with a hard yolk, instead of a runny one is quite high. Not this time, though, as the yolk ran out perfectly to mix with the fresh guacamole, smartly enriched by a hint of fresh chili.

Onto the sweet options. Me and one of my dining companions decided to share a pancake with pistachios, mascarpone cheese, berries and maple syrup. I had my eyes on the dish from the moment I opened the menu, but I opted for a savoury entry because it seemed far too heavy.

As it turns out, I was right. Nevertheless, the rich mascarpone, often overused in desserts served at hip places, mixed well with the maple syrup, which, unfortunately, appears far to seldomly, even at brunch establishments. There were way too many pistachios on the pancake, but, all in all, the dish turned out to be balanced.

Next time, however, I’m going to try the brie pancakes, again with maple syrup, and the chicken katsu sando with the gochujang mayo and the pickled red cabbage that I saw served at another table and looked spectacular.

Final note, the cocktails. A crucial part of brunch, they played their part on our visit. I recommend the Apple Of My Eye, with Luxardo liqueur, vermouth and apple cider, and the Purple Heart, with Bombay Bramble gin, limoncello, blueberries and prosecco.

A hip location, a more than decent brunch and a leafy patio, perfect for ten out of 12 months in Cyprus, meaning this will not be my last visit to Mouson.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY: Brunch and contemporary continental cuisine

WHERE: Mpoumboulinas 15, Nicosia

WHEN: Friday to Sunday 10am-12.30am, Tuesday to Thursday 5pm-12.30am, Monday closed

CONTACT: 22 664444

HOW MUCH: €9-12 for eggs, €8-15 for main courses, €8-9 for cocktails, €7-10 for dessert