Bringing life back to Cyprus hillsides

Housed in a modern winery, Marathasa wines are thriving

A couple of years ago, I predicted that there would be a revival of vineyards facing north. Since then, a few wineries have been doing just that, revitalising the viticultural heritage and planting new vines. Protected Geographical Indication Nicosia is the hidden gem of Cyprus wines.

In the heart of Marathasa valley, near Kalopanayiotis, the local winery is finally open to the public and is thriving. John Papadouris’ dream is now a reality. From being the grandson of a wine merchant to crushing grapes as a child to creating an architecturally award-winning winery, his and his team now focus on producing fine Cypriot wine.

His love of Marathasa is evident in every brick of the winery. It is this love that inspired him to replant abandoned vineyards around his childhood village of Kalopanayiotis. The valley seems to be bustling again, life is coming back to communities.

The vineyards surrounding the winery are grown at high-altitude, up to 1,125m, planted on steep stony terraces among native mountain plants and trees. The valley used to be called Myrianthousa, meaning multitude of flowers. The diverse flora, the high altitude and the mix of clay, limestone and volcanic soil weave into the vines and, consequently, the wine.

The indigenous Xynisteri, as expected, is the dominant grape, a cultivar that is well suited to the climate. It produces herbal, floral stone fruit and citrusy whites with hay characteristics. The other white, indigenous variety is the long forgotten Promara, the thick-skinned fleshy variety that produces some excellent whites for ageing. Sadly, it still represents just one per cent of the total vineyards. The winery produces Sauvignon Blanc and the Greek Moschophilero and Assyrtiko.

In the red category, Syrah is the main international variety that is produced in quantity. The first production in small quantities of the indigenous Yiannoudi has been released and is very promising. There are small quantities too for Zinfandel (or Primitivo), the Croat variety that thrives in the US and Italy. There is Grenache too and Mataro (Mourvèdre). One can only anticipate many exciting tastings in the future.

The winery uses the latest technology in winemaking, but also knows the importance of the human factor, which is led by Viktoras Finopoulos. He has made wine in Alentejo, southern Portugal, Chablis in France and as far as Marlborough in New Zealand. He claims he has a sensory love affair with wine, constantly tasting his wines. Marathasa is a relatively new project and other than regular tastings, visiting the same plot of vineyards throughout the day to understand how those vines respond to varying conditions such as the morning dew and midday heat, is a daily occurrence.

There is an expansive tasting floor where visitors, after touring this magnificent winery, can enjoy a professional tasting. Visitors can go all the way with 4X4 tour of the vineyards too. There is also an a al carte restaurant where connoisseurs can enjoy lunch with Marathasa wines.

As they say, “Marathasa Wines is not just about selling wine, it is part of a broader vision to revive mountain village communities and the surrounding vineyards. It is very fulfilling to be able to bring life again to these historic mountain vineyards.”

2022 Marathasa, Wines Athassi Xynisteri, P.G.I. Nicosia ABV13%

Athassi is the Cypriot word for almond tree, which grow around the vineyards and the almonds on which were traditionally used to make delicacies. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and French oak. Straw yellow, the aromas are wonderfully layered and balanced. There is an abundance of precise lemon citrus, white peach, tropical, floral, freshly cut grass, acacia honey and herbaceous flavours creating a wine that is deeply textured. The complexity of the wine is further enhanced by skillful use of oak, which adds richness, sweet spice and a hint of butterscotch. It is a beautifully constructed wine with excellent freshness and a long, fine finish. €12.50

2022 Marathasa, Wines, Anelikou Sauvignon Blanc, P.G.I. Nicosia ABV 12.5%

Straw yellow, this beautiful and expressive wine with a tropical fruit nose immediately transports you to a warm and sunny paradise. The initial aromas of pineapple, passion fruit, honeysuckle and kiwi are complemented by a zesty acidity that lends the wine a bright and crisp character. On the palate, the wine continues to impress with flavours of grapefruit, mango and key lime creating a mouthwatering sensation. The finish is clean and refreshing, leaving you with a lasting impression of its vibrant and lively personality. €15

2022 Marathasa Wines, Rosé Laouri, Syrah, P.G.I. Nicosia, ABV14%

This is a very gastro rosé, excellent with food. Light cherry pink colour, fresh aromas of white rose petals, violet and fresh strawberry with red cherries and blueberries in the bouquet. Cherry, vanilla and red berry flavours are highlighted in this delicate rosé with a unique blend for Cyprus. The wine is balanced with crispness and a refreshing fruity finish. This potpourri of flavours over time will take on a jammy element but don’t wait too long – rosés are made to be enjoyed upon release. €12.50

2022 Marathasa Wines, Marathos Syrah, P.G.I. Nicosia, ABV 14.5%

A spicy red aged in French and American oak. This terroir-expressive Syrah embodies elegance and restraint. Deep purple in colour, the wine delivers a perfumed nose of dried violet blossom, blackberry, black cherry, cassis, black raspberry and rhubarb reminiscent of the northern Rhone. On the palate, the dry, full-bodied Shiraz has a somewhat creamy texture with supple tannins completing with a long finish. This Shiraz is equally attractive on the nose as it is on the palate. €18

Distributed by WineVault, Marathasa Winery 22 008500, www.marathasawines.com