Smaller wineries still produce bottles of note

Ayia Mavri, Koilani, Lemesos

To many the Koilani village-based winery could be the pioneer for the establishment of regional wineries. Koilani is in the heart of Krasochoria, the wine villages of Limassol, not far from Omodhos. Planting vines and making wine in these parts dates back hundreds of years. It seems that every dwelling in Koilani housed a small winery with its owner/grower fully equipped for the production and transportation of wine to the consumer. 

Established in 1983, Doctor Ioannis Ioannides and his late wife Yiannoula followed in the footsteps of their fathers and grandfathers, producing 50,000 bottles annually in a winery known for its sweet wines, Mosxatos and Commandaria. Costas Danos, winemaker known for his work with Tsiakkas winery, is now at the helm of the winery. He believes the winery can offer more than just exceptional sweet wines. I had a chance to taste a few and agree.

2023 Ayia Mavri Xynisteri, PGI Lemesos, ABV 12%

Beautiful crystalline dress, pale gold. The nose opens immediately. First citrus fruits (orange peel and lemon), then summer fruits (white peach and pear), finally some floral notes on a subtle background of peppermint… an excellent complexity. The lively and very frank attack on the palate precedes the acidulous roundness of the summer fruits expressed by the nose which are mingled with the refreshing flavours of exotic fruits. Then, in delicate harmony, flavours of herbs and pear are revealed. Enjoy with spring vegetables, lightly cooked shellfish, grilled red snapper or tabbouleh. €8

2023 Ayia Mavri The Idyll, Moschato and Malaga, Medium Dry, PGI Lemesos, ABV 12.5%

Idyll is a blend of Moschato and Muscat of Alexandria or Malaga as is also known. Delicate and elegant, light gold colour, with refreshing aromas of lime zest and apple layered with floral hints of jasmine and orange blossom harmonising with mineral stoniness. Bright on the palate with flavours of guava, peach and citrus fruits. With its elevated acidity, pairs best with soft goat cheeses, simply prepared chicken or pork dishes sauteed or grilled, lightly prepared white fish, salmon or scallops, and greens salads or with dishes containing minimal fat, like shellfish and fennel. €10

2019 Ayia Mavri Winery Shiraz, PGI Lemesos, ABV14.5%

The fruit is sourced from Koilani, a Shiraz that is aged for approximately 12 months in oak. The bouquet features attractive notes of violets, dark berries and plum supported by hints of liquorice and a floral lift with a touch of earthy notes. On the palate, bright layers of focused red and blue fruits with hints of dark chocolate and peppery spice, finishing long with fine sheets of silky tannins. Allow cellaring for at least 10 years. Enjoy with a vegetarian recipe of sweet potato and black bean burgers or a lamb Souvla. €13

Askon Art Winery, Askas, Nicosia

The north-facing slopes of Pitsilia of Nicosia district compete with the southern facing slopes of Limassol. Wineries cultivate vineyards at high altitude that are exposed to the cold northern winds. Askas is one of these. The story of Askas started in 1991 when a young couple created Pernia Restaurant. Their children, Harris and Constantinos, continued the family trade, the first training as a chef and the other an oenologist. The passion for winemaking and viticulture drove Constantinos to create Askas Winery.

2023 Askon Art Krama White, Nicosia, ABV 12.5%,

This is an interesting white dry, a blend of Xynisteri with the Greek Assyrtiko and the French Sauvignon Blanc. Clear, pale yellow colour, brilliant hue with some viscosity on the rims. The nose offers intense aromas of white flowers, peach, pomelo and nectarine, paired with some green apple skins, tropical fruit, melon and pineapple, and elderflower, all framed with grass notes. There is a lovely tangy freshness, some chalky, textural elements and the blend adds an extra element of complexity and, I dare say, class. Not your usual Xynisteri blend but it honors the regional style. Enjoy chilled with vegetable dishes and young cheeses. You will love this with chicken breasts Piccata drenched in flour, brown in oil and drizzled with lemon butter sauce. The 2023 was a Bronze medal winery at the recent Decanter Awards. €12.50

Kalamos Winery, Amargeti, Paphos

Kalamos is only a 20-minute drive from Paphos, situated on the edge of the village of Amargeti. Nikos Ignatiou made wine and Zivania for family and friends, cultivating his vineyards every year dreaming of making Amargeti known for its wine. Soon, with his sons Thanasis and Michael, they turned the practice of fermenting and distilling the fruit family vines into a full-scale production of wine.

2023 Kalamos Winery Xynisteri, PGI Pafos, ABV 12.5%

Bright and vibrant pale-yellow colour. Subtle development and complexity in the aroma. After some time breathing, aromas of luscious stone fruit – peaches and apricots – herbs and a trace of white flowers emerge. As for the flavour, it has a velvety feel in the mouth and a long, satisfying aftertaste thanks to its good acidity and structure. This is a wine ideal to drink young alongside appetizers, fish, or carpaccio. €6.50

2020 Kalamos Winery Gerani, Maratheftiko, PGI Pafos, ABV 14%

There is a 10% of Opthalmo – the lesser known red indigenous variety in this wine. A full-bodied red, aged for 12 months in French oak. Dark ruby colour, the aromas of violet, blackberry and many dark fruits, cocoa, warm spice are very powerful from the first whiff. In the mouth, the wine is layered with rich blackberry, dark cherries and hints of dark, creamy chocolate ganache. Pair with full-bodied dishes, aged cheese or enjoy with gamier meats like grilled or roasted lamb. €13

Ayia Mavri Winery, Koilani Village, Tel: 25 470225 www.ayiamavriwinery.com

Askon Art Vineyards and Wines, Askas Village Tel: 99 944594 www.asconwinery.com

Kalamos Winery, Amargeti Village, Tel: 26 723224 www.kalamoswinery.com