Possibly Cyprus’ best taverna

Ask a thousand Cypriots what’s their favourite tavern on the island and you’ll get almost a thousand different answers. The purists will favour the food above all, for them nothing else matters. The more artsy types generally follow the music, which inevitably ends up being live rembetiko. Younger generations are usually more open to modern takes on evergreen classics, a fusion mindset if you like.

That said, they all love Old Simos in Sotira. Known by all as one of the best taverns in Cyprus, year after year it draws people from all over the island, even as far away as Paphos.

Getting a table in the summer is arduous at best, with waiting lists stretching for weeks on end.

But what is so special about Old Simos?

For yours truly, the answer is simple. The food… I guess I’m a purist after all!

I’ve eaten at Old Simos at least five or six times since moving to the island in 2018. Whether it was with my faithful dining companion, my trusted group of fellow food lovers, or my mum visiting from abroad, everyone has fallen in love with it.

One of the best things about Old Simos is that, unlike most taverns in Cyprus, you can actually choose what dishes are served in your meze. It might seem like a small detail, but when you’re being served dish after dish being able to pick exactly what you want makes a big difference.

There are a few must-haves in my meze at Old Simos. The pork shank with carob syrup is a standout. The perfectly cooked meat melts in your mouth, and the tangy carob syrup – a staple in Cyprus, but rare in taverns – provides the ideal contrast.

As a starter, nothing beats the fried halloumi sticks accompanied by tomato jam. Bear in mind, this is not your usual halloumi, rather a connoisseur thing. Even served plain it would be fantastic. But the good people at Old Simos go further, as they fry it and match it with a choice of sauce that surprisingly works, the delicate sweetness of the tomato harmoniously fighting the salty cheese.

One more starter not to miss is the fried poulles, deep fried sticks of taro root, also known as kolokasi, a staple of the Famagusta area and the ubiquitous red soil in which it grows.

Of course, the grilled meat is fantastic, but let’s be honest, that’s true for at least half the taverns on the island.

What is slightly less common is finding a traditional place that serves a dessert that is as good as the mains. Old Simos nails the pitta tis satzis, a Cypriot dish made with a type of flatbread, typically cooked on a convex, dome-shaped griddle. The bread is filled with honey and spiced with cinnamon and, at times, icing sugar.

Smoky, almost charred, yet subtle in its aftertaste, Old Simos’ pitta tis satzis is always the perfect end to the meal.

Over the past few years, I’ve tried my fair share of taverns, probably more than I care to admit. I almost never leave disappointed, but one thing is clear: Old Simos is, without question, the best tavern in Cyprus. Truth is you probably didn’t read it here first!

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Cypriot traditional tavern

WHERE Old Simos, Gregori Afentiou, Sotira

WHEN Tuesday to Sunday 6pm-11pm. Reservations advised.

CONTACT 23 730189

HOW MUCH Meze from €17 to €22 per person. Starters from €5. Mains from €9