A welcome escape in the hills

The expression “a little piece of paradise” is often overused, but it is very apt when it comes to The Secret Garden. We were thrilled to discover this restaurant during a day in the hills in an effort to escape the humidity of Paphos. The village is famous as the birthplace of Archbishop Makarios but now The Secret Garden opened by George Makris is attracting a new gastro audience.

Driving through this area with all the green vegetation makes a welcome change from the dry, arid landscapes near the coast. We combined our day away from the humidity with buying wine from a nearby winery, fruit from road-side stalls and olive oil from a dedicated facility in the next village.

Going through the pretty village of Panayia you could easily miss The Secret Garden, which would be a great shame. The number of cars parked there visible from the main road are the clue. Rather stupidly, we had not made a reservation and were surprised upon entering how busy it was. We were lucky to get the last table for two in the pretty courtyard garden. There are different areas all shaded by trees where you can sit and be transported to a different world with the sound of exotic birds from the aviary.

This is a daytime venue, and its menu is divided into two sections: a brunch menu from 10am to 1pm and then a mains menu until they close. I liked this place so much that I have visited it three times in a very short period with different friends who all shared my enthusiasm.

We were within the brunch hours on our first visit, and the menu offered a three-course brunch. This starts with a yoghurt dish with honey and walnuts, then moves onto eggs, village halloumi, and other cheeses with bacon, cured meats, olive and beetroot bread, and homemade jams. It finishes with sweet and seasonal fruits. The brunch can also be adapted for vegetarians, and you need a minimum of two to order it. My guest thought it was too much so we selected two different types of pancakes and shared them.

Each plate arrived at the table with three large, thick pancakes with the requested fillings. We cut them in half and swapped, leaving us with a combination of chocolate and banana on one side and forest fruits with cream cheese on the other. On another brunch visit, I went for the healthier option of Granola. A huge bowl filled with granola, honey and every fruit you could think of, all beautifully chopped up and presented. I would still recommend the set menu brunch though as most people in the garden were having this, and judging from the boards of food that went past, it looked incredible.

On my final visit we chose from the main menu, which is quite limited, with a choice of two types of Angus Beef Burgers, Chicken Souvlaki or the Secret Club Sandwich. There is also a choice of two salads and four pizzas or sharing platters. We selected the chicken, which was beautifully marinated in honey and lemon sauce and served on pitta with salad and chips on the side. The surprise was the club sandwich, which was huge and thankfully shared at the table. A Greek pitta filled with cubed chicken, bacon, omelette, basil mayonnaise, cheese and ham with salad between the layers. Again, fries were served on the side. It was one of the best club sandwiches I have enjoyed.

The dessert selection under the direction of a dedicated pastry chef is outstanding, with a choice of Machalepi, Orange Pie, Cherry Chocolate or Passion Cheesecake. They are quite possibly worth a visit in their own right.

The drinks menu adds to the whole experience with a selection of cocktails and local wines. Positioned just 30 minutes from the airport road, The Secret Garden is highly recommended for an escape. It is just that little bit different to the norm and an unexpected treat in the hills. Sadly, it will close at the end of October until April next year. Regular opening hours throughout September and weekends only during October.

SPECIALTY Cypriot Brunch, desserts and dishes with a twist

WHERE The Secret Garden, 79, Pano Panayia

WHEN September: Wednesday to Sunday. Weekdays 10am to 6pm, weekends 10am to 8pm. October: only open at weekends. Reservations advised.

CONTACT 99 038 137

HOW MUCH Three-course brunch €17 per person. Other brunch dishes from €7. Mains from €15. Desserts from €6.