Add a taste of south India

Traditional Malabar spice mix

Malabar is a region in the South of India. The name of the region is thought to be derived from the Malayalam words mala (hill) and vaaram (range, region), westernised into ‘bar’. Until the arrival of the British, the term Malabar was used in Western trade circles as a general name for Kerala. The term Malabar Coast, historically and generally, refers to India’s southwestern coast, which lies on the narrow coastal plain of Karnataka and Kerala between the Western Ghats range and the Arabian Sea. The coast runs from south of Goa to Kanyakumari on Kerala’s southern tip. Malayalam is the language of Kerala, the southern-most state in India. Over 35 million people speak this language. Malayalam, one of the Dravidian languages, has its own alphabet and grammar.

Kerala cuisine, also known as Malabar cuisine, is South Indian cuisine that is native to the state of Kerala. It is known for its use of a variety of spices and ingredients, as well as its distinctive flavour profiles with well-blended spice flavours accented by coconut oil or milk. Blessed with unique spices, such as cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, turmeric, curry leaves and pepper – Kerala was the spice garden of the ancient world, for which traders sailed the seas to the Malabar Coast. Malabar cuisine is not just about food, it’s a journey through history, tradition and community.

There is a recipe for my mother, Daisy’s, traditional Malabar Spice or Malabar Garam Masala, that is pre-made and stored in our fridge. It is fairly easy to make.

This spice mixture adds loads of depth and flavour to any curry. It adds such a South Indian flavour to grilled meats and fish, as well as curries with vegetables and lentils. The key to good flavour for me is fresh curry leaves. You can use dried ones or curry leaf powder. Try this wonderful spice powder mix to add that ‘Malabar’ touch to your Indian dishes.

Heat a skillet on medium heat (I use an iron skillet but it means I have to be careful with the heat so as not to burn the spices). Warm up your pan and add

2 tablespoon cumin seeds

1/4 cup coriander seeds

2 tablespoons fennel seeds

1 tablespoon whole cloves

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon seeds of cardamom

2 pieces star anise

2 sticks cinnamon, 1 inch each approx.

Heat until fragrant and toasted, for a few minutes. Watch the heat carefully so nothing burns.

Add to this:

1/2 cup desiccated coconut (or fresh desiccated coconut or thinly sliced pieces of fresh coconut

2 tablespoons dried fenugreek leaves

2 tablespoons crushed red chilli flakes

Keep on medium heat until the coconut is golden. Coconut burns rather quickly so keep stirring constantly and manage the heat under the pan. When you can smell the beautiful aroma of the toasted coconut, add:

1/3 cup curry leaf powder or a full cup of fresh toasted curry leaves (if fresh toast the leaves in some coconut oil till crispy and then use in this masala)

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

Switch off the heat. Let cool, then transfer to a spice grinder and grind into a powder. Store in an airtight container for up to six months in the fridge (especially if you have used fresh ingredients for grinding).

Serene Tharian arranges South Indian Dinner Clubs through her cooking club, The Best Exotic Kerala Kitchen, also on Facebook and Instagram. She can also be contacted on 99 222462