Great vegan choice, and not just for Lent

It’s Lent, and I’m fasting, so I decided to visit a fully vegan restaurant instead of settling for a traditional eatery where plant-based options are an afterthought.

Despite the growing number of people adopting plant-based diets – whether for health, environmental, ethical, or financial reasons – vegan dining options in Nicosia (and Cyprus in general, unfortunately) remain scarce. Ethnic restaurants often offer a variety of vegetarian and vegan dishes, but dedicated plant-based spots are few and far between.

That’s why I landed on Elysian, a plant-based kitchen bar just a stone’s throw from Nicosia’s old town.

Elysian is both noticeable and unassuming. It sits on a busy thoroughfare, yet at a glance, its façade blends in with the coffee shops lining the street. Muted pastel tones contrast with greenery, while a faux-rustic interior meets modern minimalism. It’s equal parts cozy and functional.

Upon entering, I was quickly greeted by a cheerful young waiter and told to sit wherever I liked. Since it was a pleasantly warm evening, I opted for an outdoor table. I was handed the menu – two front-and-back laminated A4 pages, half of which was dedicated to brunch, now long over.

No matter. The remaining options looked just as appetising, and were I not dining alone, I would have probably over-ordered. But with a table for one, I stuck to the tried-and-true formula: starter, main course, dessert.

Browsing the menu, I noticed several dishes marked with little heart symbols. Health-conscious picks? Chef’s favourites? Crowd-pleasers? Who’s to say?

For a starter, I chose the baked portobello mushrooms with homemade feta. The dish arrived about ten minutes later – six small mushrooms, each adorned with a cube of faux feta, arranged on a bed of julienned lettuce drizzled with balsamic reduction. The mushrooms were well-baked, striking the right balance between chewy and tender, though to my palate, they leaned a little underseasoned.

The balsamic did most of the heavy lifting, while the feta sat somewhere in the uncanny valley, not quite sure if it wanted to crumble or melt.

That said, I still cleaned the plate.

Next up, the somewhat aggressively named Signature Cheese Bomb Burger. “Good choice, that’s one of our bestsellers,” the waiter assured me. Mystery solved – the little hearts mark the fan favourites.

The burger arrived with flair, plated alongside hand-cut fries, coleslaw and a tiny milk pitcher – for all that cheese, naturally.

Now, vegan burgers vary wildly. Some try to mimic the taste and texture of meat, while others fully embrace their vegetable and legume heritage. It’s a matter of personal preference, of course, but I appreciate when a vegan burger owns what it is. I’m happy to report that Elysian’s burger strikes a balance between both worlds.

The patty was wonderfully seasoned and well-cooked – whatever blend they’re using, it works. Topped with caramelised onions, fresh tomato, and lettuce, all sandwiched between a soft poppy seed bun, it hit all the right notes. Each bite delivered something different – earthy depth one moment, bright zestiness the next. I had to remind myself to pause and eat the fries and coleslaw.

And that’s not to take away from them. The fries, golden and crisp, were sprinkled with oregano – simple, classic, perfect. The coleslaw, despite being mayo-free, was better than many traditional versions I’ve had.

Now, the cheese. I won’t say it tastes exactly like supermarket nacho cheese dip, but it’s not far off (probably has the same amount of real cheese in it, too). For all the things vegan cuisine excels at – and there are many – cheese remains its Achilles’ heel. Too often, vegan choices include imitation cheese when they could be using the vibrant, flavourful sauces found across plant-based cuisines and it’s a shame when they don’t.

Let’s end on a sweet note.

For dessert, I asked the waiter for something light, and he returned with a small chocolate-peanut tablet that – only mildly exaggerating here – I devoured in record time after the first bite.

Because it wasn’t drowned in sugar, the cocoa, peanut and oat flavours took centre stage, rich and pronounced. That kind of balance is so rare in restaurant desserts today that it almost felt novel. It was delicious.

As I settled the bill and bid farewell to the staff, I couldn’t help but think that, of all the restaurants I’ve reviewed, this was the one I wished necessity hadn’t dictated I dine at alone.

“See you next time!” the cheery waiter called as I stepped out.

And indeed they will – not just for the next fast.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY: Vegan, plant-based cuisine

WHERE: Elysian, Diagorou 15, Nicosia

WHEN: Tuesday to Friday 10am-3.30pm and 6.30-10.30pm, Saturday 10am-10.30pm, Sunday 10am-4pm

CONTACT 22 004343

HOW MUCH €4-€8 for appetizers, €10-€15 for salads, €12-€16 for mains