Militzis tavern, Larnaca

When friends visit from abroad, there are always one or two restaurants they insist on going back to. For our guests this summer, that place was Militzis in Larnaca, a restaurant that has been around for decades with a reputation that few others can match. It’s a name you hear often.

It was a blisteringly hot day, the kind where even a short walk feels like a trek. Parking in the area isn’t easy at the best of times, so we dropped our friends off outside the restaurant and went in search of a spot. The two-minute walk back felt more like ten, but eventually we joined them at the table.

We were first offered seats outside, where the view of the sea is exactly what you’d hope for, but we demurred to the air-conditioned dining room inside.

Something that struck me immediately was how the menus have changed. I remember the heavy wooden ones from years ago. They’ve now been replaced with a lighter paper version, easier to handle, but thankfully the contents are much the same. Militzis has always been famous for kleftiko, but the menu is full of the old favourites: lamb chops, souvla, halloumi, moussaka.

I arrived fully intending to order the lamb kleftiko. But as I scanned the menu, I found myself tempted by the moussaka and even the beef kleftiko, which looked every bit as inviting. Luckily, I overheard my dad wrestling with the same indecision, torn between the moussaka and the kleftiko so we agreed to share. As a table, we also had lamb souvla, lamb kleftiko, pourgouri and the house-made sheep’s yoghurt.

One of the things I love about Militzis is the traditional atmosphere. Outside, with the colourful bougainvillaea and the checkered tablecloths, it feels more like a village taverna than a seafront restaurant. Some people might find it old-fashioned, but to me it’s part of the charm.

The food didn’t take long to arrive. A generous slab of moussaka was placed down, rich and hearty. The beef kleftiko came surrounded by oven-baked potatoes, steaming and aromatic. The lamb souvla was a mountain of meat, tender and juicy, and the lamb kleftiko was just as generous. The pourgouri looked perfectly balanced, not too heavy on tomato, and the yoghurt was exactly as described, tangy and refreshing.

I sampled a piece of lamb souvla after my friend admitted defeat. It had been cooked slowly over charcoal and was beautifully done, crisped just right on the outside while still soft and juicy inside. I was envious not to have had more, but there was plenty on my own plate to keep me happy.

The moussaka’s layers of potato and vegetables were soft but not overcooked, the mince was seasoned well, but the béchamel on top could have been better. It wasn’t bad, but it lacked that extra smoothness that makes a moussaka perfect. The beef kleftiko, on the other hand, was excellent. Falling apart at the touch of the fork, it had all the deep flavour of slow-cooked meat without the fattiness of lamb.

By the time we’d eaten our fill, the waiter appeared and asked if we would like dessert. Of course, we said yes. There’s always room for dessert, right? He smiled and explained it was on the house. Out came plates and a large platter of watermelon and a tray of spoon sweets.

It’s not hard to see why Militzis has lasted as long as it has. People come back year after year, and for visitors it’s one of those names they remember and want to revisit. The food is hearty and traditional, the setting is unpretentious, and the atmosphere ties it all together.

For me, it’s the kind of place I’m always happy to return to. It feels like a part of Larnaca itself; reliable, familiar, and always ready to welcome you back.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Traditional Cypriot

WHERE Militzis taven, Piyale Pasa, Larnaca

WHEN 12pm-11pm, daily

CONTACT 24 655867

HOW MUCH Lamb souvla €15. Beef Kleftiko €14. Pourgouri €4.90. Mousaka €13.50