Indian outlet stands the test of time

A long-standing fixture of Nicosia’s dining scene, India India is situated at a busy traffic intersection and it is hard to miss – not least because it has been there since 2008.

We entered the restaurant shortly after it opened for dinner and were promptly greeted by a smartly dressed waitress who bid us hello before inquiring if we had reservations. ‘No,’ I replied, feeling an inexplicable pang of anxiety despite the fact that my companion and I were, for the time being, the only patrons in the restaurant.

She assured us we could sit wherever we liked, so we chose a dimly lit corner beneath a Taj Mahal mural. Moments later, we were handed menus although they had no illustrations, not that they would’ve been of much use in the low light environment, anyway.

Before ordering the food – but after ordering the beer – I took a moment to soak in the décor. Unlike the utilitarian menus, the fixtures were bright and vibrant, contrasting the black seats and tables. Small stained glass ceiling lights bathed the place in warm hues of yellow and orange. Statuettes and paintings of various Hindu deities adorned the walls and columns, quietly listening to the same inoffensive Hindi pop music as the patrons.

We began with two appetizers: the reshmi kebab, a minced chicken kebab neither of us had tried before, and the ever-reliable potato pakora. For the main course, my companion stuck with the familiar and ordered the UK’s adopted national dish of chicken tikka masala. I chose a lamb madras. We also ordered garlic naan and a portion of lemon rice. To wash everything down – two Cobra beers. They aren’t exactly Indian, but let’s not split hairs.

Soon enough, our starters – along with three complimentary sauces – arrived and we gleefully tucked in. The reshmi kebab was well-cooked and seasoned with just the right balance – fragrant spices enhancing rather than overwhelming the meat.

The humble potato pakora, however, stole the show. Each potato slice was so uniformly cut, evenly seasoned and deep-fried so well that for a fleeting moment I was convinced these were ordinary crisps that the kitchen staff had simply battered and refried. Of course, they weren’t.

As we finished our starters, the waitress returned with the mains, naan and lemon rice. Meals in Indian culture are meant to be shared, which is why I appreciated the synchronized service – all the dishes for our table arrived together, ensuring a shared experience rather than a staggered one.

The garlic naan did not disappoint. It was immediately evident that it was freshly made, rather than some sad, frozen supermarket affair. Fluffy and pliant, it barely hit the table before it was gone.

The chicken tikka masala arrived in an eye-catching Venetian red sauce. The chicken itself was tender and flavourful, though my companion, having requested it hot, found the spice level rather mild.

The lamb madras was genuinely fine, a deep yellow, fragrant stew, with a properly reduced sauce, the meat seemingly slow-cooked until it was hard to tell where the lamb stops and the sauce begins.

Finally, there was the basmati lemon rice. Wonderfully cooked, no clumping – each grain of rice was its own individual element. The lemon subtly cut through the richness of both the tikka masala and the madras, helping to balance the meal perfectly.

By the end of the meal and with both of us full to bursting, I gluttonously decided to persevere into dessert territory. Unfortunately, there was none to be had.

India India is a restaurant that, like it’s choice of music, plays all the hits and plays them well. There’s a reason why this place has stuck around since 2008, back when Indian food was considered something of a quaint novelty on the island.

I know I’ll be coming back.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Punjabi-inspired Indian

WHERE India India, Arsinois & Nikis Avenue

WHEN Monday – Saturday 12-2.30pm and 6.30-10.30pm. Sunday 6.30-10.30pm

CONTACT 22 490440

HOW MUCH €12.90 for chicken curries, €14.50 for lamb dishes, €5 for plain rice