Feng’s House, Larnaca

Spontaneity can be fun but perhaps not the best idea on a weekday afternoon. Most places were ‘closing soon’ and opening again in the evening but we remembered the sister restaurant of one of the places we had in mind. Feng’s House was open for business!

Things were looking up as we even managed to find parking along the busy Finikoudes.

Inside the place looked surprisingly refined. Round tables, neat wooden floors, soft chairs that didn’t wobble when you sat down, everything arranged with a sense of purpose. It didn’t feel like a typical beach-strip Chinese restaurant at all. It had the sort of calm that makes you want to take your time without thinking about it.

By the time we arrived, we were so hungry that everything on the menu looked good. We called a waiter who helpfully, and confidently, told us that a menu for two would offer enough even though we were three. However, wanting to try as much as possible, we went for an extra dish, crispy chicken with Szechwan. My partner ordered it ‘extra, extra spicy’, which ruled out me trying it!

The starters arrived quickly. We had ordered the set menu and were given two spring rolls, ribs, sesame toast and chicken wings. Perhaps it was because the waiter had recommended it be shared or just general kindness, they added a third piece of each, at no extra cost. Little details like that are what make establishments stand out. The sesame prawn toast was crispy and warm with a good punch of prawn flavour. The spring rolls were generously filled and tasted good, coated in a nicely coloured, crisp shell. No complaints there. The ribs, were small but somehow still very meaty and nicely seasoned. Overall, a very good start!

The mains followed almost immediately, each dish placed on little raised stands with tea lights tucked underneath to keep everything warm. I always like that touch.

The crispy beef was the star of the meal for me. Coated in a red glaze that looked sweet at first glance but wasn’t overpowering once you tried it, the beef stayed crisp, even sitting above the candle, and every bite had that satisfying crunch. The pork with cashews felt comforting in a home-style way, simple but honest. No fancy twists, just meat, nuts and sauce doing exactly what they should. The chow mein worked as an easy side, nothing pushy or overly seasoned, and the rice filled the gaps and soaked up all the tasty sauce. I also loved the lemon chicken, but the sauce was a little on the sweet side for my partner, as was the sauce on a couple of other dishes, leaving me and my dad to fight it out for her share! Luckily, she didn’t go hungry as her extra spicy Szechwan filled the gap.

The meal plus extra dish fed three people comfortably. Given the size of the dishes on the set menu, Feng’s is a flexible place for groups, or for people who like to try several things without over-committing.

Despite being full, there is always room for dessert. Obviously, it had to be the classic choice of banana fritters. It arrived and our eyes widened. A very generous eight large pieces with a substantially sized scoop of vanilla ice cream. The batter was crisp and piping hot around the edges with hot, soft banana inside. The coolness of the ice cream balanced it out perfectly. The only thing was the syrup. It was much sweeter than I expected, which pushed the whole dessert from light to slightly overwhelming. A smaller amount would have sufficed.

The experience was easy, comfortable and good value. If you find yourself walking along Finikoudes at an odd hour, when most places have shut their kitchens, Feng’s is worth stepping into. Go for the set menu if you want to try several items without complicating things.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Chinese

WHERE Feng’s House, Athenon 103, Larnaca (Finikoudes)

WHEN Daily, 12:30pm-11:30pm

CONTACT 24 657176

HOW MUCH 2 set menus, Szechwan chicken, 2 desserts and soft drinks – €83