What’s Eaten Where: Turkmenistan

The Gates to Hell are located in the midst of the Karakum Desert. Here, out amidst the black dunes where the rain never falls, lies the pit of Darvaza: a massive molten monstrosity. Truly, if ever there were a portal to the underworld, this would be it. And yet, the Gates of Hell are, it transpires, man-made…

Apparently, a mining accident in the early 70s caused the crater to form; scientists then suggested that the resulting gas, if lit, would burn off within a couple of weeks. Half a century later, the fires are still going strong – and delighting the country’s few tourists. As the least-popular ‘stan’, Turkmenistan sees just 6,000 visitors each year, the majority of whom come to see the blaze.

For foodies, on the other hand, Turkmenistan is no top 10 destination. Thirty-plus years after the country gained independence, the majority of restaurants continue to serve Russian cuisine. Meanwhile, traditional fare tends to rely heavily on plov – a not terribly inspiring mix of mutton chunks, carrots and rice.

Often enjoyed (or, at the very least, consumed) for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plov remains the staple food – for those who can afford it. Despite the country’s rich reserves of natural gas, autocratic governance has led to poverty for many.

Of course, there’s always chegdermeh – a traditional local dish that’s made from (surprise!) mutton, rice and tomatoes. Or shashlyk: skewered mutton (sometimes lamb) kebabs with a side of raw onion, served in a vinegar sauce. Or shurpa, a thick soup most often consisting of (you guessed it!) mutton and carrots.

For a little variety, there’s a nice selection of pastry products. Pastries include the crispy Turkmen somsa stuffed with beef, onions, and lamb and fried until crispy. Ishlykly is a popular pie: a sort of two-layered pizza stuffed with mutton and veggies. And manti are the local dumplings, filled with the expected mix of onions, carrots and mutton.

Granted, there’s always melons. And a refreshing glass of green tea – the national drink. But, given the lack of spices and seasonings in local fare and the general sameness of the cuisine, the hottest attraction in Turkmenistan is definitely the Gates of Hell. This is not a destination for foodies.