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Restaurant review: To Achilleion, Nicosia

Rest

Among the ‘knowing ones’, this establishment is also known as Platanos – due to the giant Asian Plane tree beneath which it shelters – the place, or the club, or simply, Andro’s. Before the scourge forced it to comply with our life saving legislation, this was the harbour of the most diverse dining coterie in Cyprus: mechanics and ministers, diplomats and designers, ambassadors, authors and academics – above and below the salt – lawyers, liars, accountants and actuaries by the bucket-load. And let’s not forget the lapidaries, millionaires, drivers and gardeners. Masters of the Universe broke bread with the United Nations, side by side with sheep shearing olive barons discussing prices with plumbers, plasterers and painters. But no matter how humble, rich or self-important, Andro, the master of ceremonies, and Floventier, his son-in-law, treat them all the same, be they hobbledehoy or autocrat.

Where is this enigmatic bastion of brotherhood? It’s in the village of Ayios Omologitis, enclosed within the city of Nicosia, familiar to few, envied by many. There is no finer example of vernacular architecture in the capital. How it has survived the bulldozer will only be known to the Saint. Pax tecum.

The ethos of Achilleion has evolved by natural selection. It is a phenomenon that has existed on the same site for over a hundred years. Like many, it has suffered the rigours of modernity, but in the kitchen is a jewel beyond price: Rubel. He has been with Andro for ten years, who in turn has been on site for 38 years; so many culinary secrets. My favourite dish is Beef Bhuna – not spicy – made with silver onions, herbs and root vegetables accompanying tender beef portions in a thick viscous brown sauce.

Now in the era of ‘take out’ Achilleion will require a day or two notice for the specials, particularly the beef, baked hare and rabbit dishes as well as fresh fish: marida, bream, bass and crustaceans.

The standard fare of Ospria (pulses), changes every two days: louvi, black eyed beans with chard; fagi, lentils, rice and onions; Koukia, broad beans; Fasolia, potatoes, carrots, eggs and lemon; and gigantes, huge beans in tomato sauce. All priced at six euros. More sustainable dishes, such as pork chops, lamb cutlets, liver (beef and lamb), chicken, all served with the celebrated chips. If desired as an additional dish, it will cost another two euros. Meze, grilled or otherwise, will not exceed 15 euros. The card includes kebab, sieftalia, halloumi, sausage, pastourma, mushrooms et al. very reasonably priced. Many salads.

I ordered sieftalia in pitta; lamb’s liver and a small number of cutlets with a large portion of chips.

Until next week all orders will have to be collected from site, because they have just signed up with ‘Foody’ the mobile service, which will involve a delivery charge of two euros.

Vital Statistics

Specialty: Traditional Cypriot and Hellenic.

Where: 1, Kanaris, Agios Omologites, Nicosia.

Opening times: 1200 to 2200hrs. Closed on Sunday.

Contact: 22668532 99456831.

Price: Very reasonable. Visa cards accepted.

 

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