It’s not what springs to mind as anyone’s favourite beach but PHILIPPA TRACY offers a sterling defence of its charms

People usually laugh when I talk about how much I enjoy Mackenzie beach. Why? Perhaps it is not the most fashionable beach on the island. Who knows? When I Googled best beaches in Cyprus, according to Trip Advisor, Mackenzie Beach makes it into the top 10 but way down the list, behind the likes of Nissi Beach, Fig Tree Bay, Coral Bay and Makronissos. It may not have the same lovely white sand or be patronised by all the beautiful Nicosia trend setters, but it is definitely my first-choice beach. So, I am here to set the record straight for all those self-appointed beach aficionados and doubters.

Firstly, if you live in Nicosia, Mackenzie is very close. Once you navigate the traffic in Nicosia to get to the actual motorway, it is literally a 30-minute drive. It is basically just round the corner! And that is really important when it is as ridiculously hot as it has been recently. Who wants to sit in a car for an hour and a half to get to Protaras or two hours to get to Paphos? More importantly, and especially if you have young kids, who wants to sit in a car for all that time on the way back? Fortunately, I no longer do have small children – but I still don’t want to do it. Excessive heat, stickiness, sand everywhere, bored kids and a long car journey; no thanks!

As for the beach itself, the sand may not be white, but it is golden and warm and the sea is still clear and blue. The same blue Mediterranean at Nissi and Fig Tree Bay; the same blue Mediterranean of Shelley’s Ode to the West Wind. These shallow waters meet the azure, blue sky in one joyous, relaxing panorama. And who doesn’t want the added bonus of watching the low-flying planes coming in to land at Larnaca airport. It’s “a must for plane-spotters”, according to the Jet2holidays website. You might also argue that it drowns out the sound of screaming kids (there are not that many) and beats the loud boombox style music at some of the Napa beaches. And if you do have kids, it feels like such a safe place to dip into the calm, shallow water on a boiling hot summer afternoon in Cyprus.

‘O for a beaker full of the warm South’ East, as Keats might have said, if, in his Nightingale ode, he had been talking about Mackenzie beach instead of the South of France. Surely an equally perfect place to contemplate one’s own mortality. And while there is no ‘blushful Hippocrene’ fountain with ‘beaded bubbles winking at the brim’ or ancient Greek muses thought to inspire poetry, (at least not that I have noticed), Mackenzie is no less enticing for that. In terms of fountains or bubbles, there are plenty of options for frappe or wine, believe me. Or cocktails in the evening, when it becomes a tad more lively.

There’s no manic party vibe at Mackenzie, at least during the day. But there’s plenty of parking and it’s cheap. There are plenty of sun beds too. Also cheap. But way more importantly, the sun beds are not on top of each other. In a post-Covid world, this may please some people who are still paranoid about catching a virus from others who get too close. Personally, I have always been in favour of having as much space between myself and the next person I don’t know as possible. The sun beds at Mackenzie have ample space between them. You don’t have to listen to anyone else’s conversation or taste their food. That is such a big plus for anyone who cannot abide people getting into their personal space. It might be unavoidable on public transport, but I certainly don’t want to deal with it on a beach. As an aside, even less do I expect to have to suffer it when I’m paying to stay in a 5-star hotel. Over the years, I have stayed in a couple of such hotels in Cyprus, which shall remain nameless, where I would call the sun bed situation inappropriately intimate. What’s that about? Give me Mackenzie any day.

In terms of eateries, there are plenty at Mackenzie. I can never decide between a toasted halloumi, tomato and cucumber sandwich on the beach or some sushi at Lush Beach Bar. There are plenty of other options too and some very decent fish restaurants a short walk away in the pretty harbour. This is perfect if you go down late afternoon for a swim and stay to eat in the early evening. Both Zephyros and Psarolimano have great fish and a lively buzz, at reasonable prices. But the food options on the beach itself are not at all bad. And if you are going to the fish restaurants, then park at Mackenzie and walk; it is definitely easier.

When I was younger I used to get bored at the beach all day. Maybe that was because it was less relaxing with young children in tow. I am now quite happy to sit and read my book, go for the occasional dip, and watch others struggling on entertaining their children or grandchildren. As long as they don’t get too close, or start screaming, I find it all perfectly relaxing and enjoyable. I really don’t mind the sound of the planes either; songbirds they are not but they are an interesting distraction. I don’t need any other distractions and I am not into water sports particularly, but they definitely are advertised here, if that is your thing. There are other attractions too such as the Larnaca Love Bus sightseeing tour and the buses look fabulous.

And on a final note about facilities, I have to say, these are perfectly clean and acceptable. There are showers and toilets and changing rooms that appear to be checked and cleaned regularly. Obviously some of the restaurants have even better facilities for their customers. I once decided to go for a quick swim before heading to the airport to catch a flight. So I had to use the public showers and changing rooms. My only one concern was that there was a queue for the changing room, which wouldn’t have been a problem if I wasn’t on a tight time scale to catch a plane. It was the height of last summer. Some brattish three-year, came in and started checking under the changing room doors. When she discovered an empty cubicle, she dragged her mother in and they pushed to the front of the queue. Obviously, I told her what I thought. That has nothing to do with Mackenzie though; that’s just some people!

Last year, Mackenzie made it into the Sunday Times list of the top 17 beaches in Cyprus, only at number 13, but even so. Apparently, according to Trip Adviser, it’s not even the top beach in Larnaca. I do beg to differ! In short, I have not been drinking from the Hippocrene fountain, but I am not embarrassed to say how much I love it. It really doesn’t get as busy as some of the other beaches. And I hope this doesn’t inspire people to head down there, so that it does. But it isn’t currently full of hyperactive partygoers, at least not during the day. And unless it is over 40 degrees, in which case nobody should really be on a beach, Mackenzie is the spot I would choose every time.