Restaurant review: Tode Ti, Nicosia

Tucked away in Engomi, one of Nicosia’s most residential areas and amidst a burgeoning enclave of eateries, Tode Ti – a modest yet inviting haven boasting the culinary treasures of Greek Macedonian cuisine – is one of the capital’s best kept secrets.

I admit, the discovery wasn’t mine alone. I was accompanied by my trusted dining companion, but I only found out about the place thanks to a couple of fellow foodies, who graciously invited us.

Stepping into Tode Ti, the ambiance exuded a tavern-like charm sans the bustling clamour typical of most Cypriot taverns.

What ensued was an unexpected delight, at least for a meat lover such as myself: an evening where, save for one entry, all the dishes that made their way onto the table were vegetarian. Definitely a departure from my past predilections, but one that pleasantly surprised.

The star performers were undoubtedly the appetizers. The Santorini fava puree, harmoniously paired with confit tomatoes and homemade bread, earned our unanimous applause, prompting a swift order for seconds, promptly devoured.

Equally memorable were the nuances of the hummus with smoked aubergines and walnuts, evoking distant memories of a reminiscent Romanian dish albeit with a different, slightly heavier and more garlicky twist.

But the pinnacle of the appetizers came in the form of the Bouyourdi, a spirited rendition of the baked feta dip from Asia Minor cuisine. Its fiery, yet somehow subtle flavours delighted everyone at the table, claiming the title of the night’s favourite.

Navigating the menu, we then experienced the unexpected charm of tomato loukoumades, accompanied by a cooling yogurt dressing. Bar my companion, typically averse to tomatoes, we all succumbed to the dish’s originality.

Not every entry hit the mark, however. The mushroom flogera, a traditionally baked pastry, instead served fried, left me yearning for more depth in flavour, a rarity when mushrooms are involved.

The saganaki, deep-fried graviera cheese, also failed to particularly impress. But when you can find saganaki at virtually every tavern in Cyprus and in Greece, I let that slide.

Only one main course graced our table, an orzotto with veal. While the meat itself was a tender delight, a richer tomato base or a medley of additional spices could have elevated the dish. However, at that point I was already quite full.

All in all, a rather wonderful dinner out, I do have a soft spot for ‘politiki kouzina’. I am looking forward to going back, perhaps in the summer eating alfresco on the lovely porch with a glass of retsina.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Northern Greek/Macedonian food

WHERE Tode Ti, Odysseos Androutsou 24Α, Engomi, Nicosia

WHEN Tuesday to Thursday 6-11pm, Friday and Saturday 1-11pm, Sunday 1-6pm, Monday closed

HOW MUCH €5-8 for appetisers, €10-15 for mains, €6-8 for desserts

CONTACT 96 620574