Oniro – Paphos

When it comes to firm favourite venues, Oniro has always been a winner, and somewhere we would often take visitors who would always sit in awe of the views and location. In recent years, this incredibly successful restaurant was redeveloped to offer a temporary space while a new permanent structure was being built.

Last summer, we were surprised by the dramatic changes that had taken place, and, to be honest, a little disappointed. The tables and chairs had been replaced with bean bags, with low tables and very few normal table-and-chair setups. Plus, you could no longer reserve a table, which made any visit a risky business. The menu had radically changed, offering a very informal takeaway experience with cardboard boxes and plastic glasses. More like an informal beach club than a restaurant. We did enjoy an excellent pizza, and the views were just as magnificent, but it just wasn’t quite the same.

However, the good news is that 2026 sees yet another makeover, still temporary, as there is no sign of the new structure. Tables and chairs have returned, as has the option to book a table. As you drive into the car park, you realise that the new Oniro is very different, with newly planted gardens and a fence painted in soft colours that show the new pastel scheme. The whole place felt very much at one with nature, as it does not compete with the stunning surrounding landscape – a chance to switch off and escape daily life.

We arrived early, so we had the chance to choose where to sit: who knew it could be so involved, with so many tempting options now. I am not sure how they do it, but Oniro always has excellent staff. They are friendly and super-efficient. We were greeted by a young man called Andrew, who was charming and professional.

Another positive is that the new menu harks back to the old days, offering a diverse selection of Mediterranean dishes with a unique twist. I particularly liked the way that the menu is designed for those wanting a gastronomic experience or those who might have a snack or a lunchtime burger. There are raw options, limited salads, bites, spreads, a fish section, a fire-and-smoke section, and casual eats. Vegans are very well catered for.

We ordered from the bite section to share a starter called Cheese Rolls, and were surprised by the large portion size, perfect for sharing. In light filo pastry, these were the most delightful rolls, filled with feta, graviera and manouri, with fennel paste, presented on a bed of tomato relish, and topped with yoghurt. The phrase ‘an explosion of flavours’ is overused, but these rolls really were, with the powerful flavours of the cheese combined in one mouthful. We loved them and quickly cleared the plate.

For main we selected Pork Spare Ribs, coated in an ouzo BBQ sauce, with house-made pickles on the side, and what was described as Spinach Lasagne. Unfortunately, my dining companion found the ribs to be on the cool side, so we asked a waiter to return them to the kitchen, which he did straight away. The lasagne was filled with spinach with a white wine cream sauce, and was more like cannelloni than a lasagne, but divine. Divided into three rolls, the combination of flavours, including feta cheese and béchamel, worked very well.

It was just a shame that the flow of the meal was interrupted. One person eating away, and the other sitting there with nothing. We thought they would heat the ribs, but after a slight delay, a fresh portion of two racks arrived at the table, with plenty of apologies. Thankfully, unlike many restaurants that do absolutely nothing when something goes wrong, they offered both of us a free drink. It was not a major drama, as it extended our time sitting in this breathtaking location.

Oniro is definitely back to the good old days. Whether it is for brunch, lunch or a full-blown dinner or just a coffee or one of their fabulous cocktails, normal service has resumed.

VITAL STATISTICS

SPECIALTY Modern Mediterranean

WHERE Glikou Nerou 05, Peyia, Paphos

WHEN Tuesday to Sunday 12-11 pm.

CONTACT 7007 7272. Booking is advised. www.oniro.cy

PRICE Salads from €14, Dips from €8, Mains from €17, Casual Eats from €15