Cyprus wines made from Xynesteri grapes may give surprising answer

If the title was can Xynisteri-based white wines be aged, the answer would be clearer. At Vasilikon winery in Kathikas a group of Paphos-based sommeliers had the chance to do a vertical tasting of Vasilikon Xynisteri and some of older vintages of Aion (oaked Maratheftiko).

The question though is not can we age white wines, but why white wines age so beautifully. I am often asked when a wine will be at is best, but that question is usually about red wines. There is a general assumption that whites won’t go the distance. Sommeliers though would always love to offer white wines that have aged.

We all agree the wine world is full of outdated advice or myths. These steer people away from enjoying great wines. One persistent example of a wine myth is that only red wines can age. I believe that this is a result of another myth, that people believe that wines are inherently more luxurious and serious and should therefore be more expensive. At Kathikas, if anyone subscribed to these concepts, that it was time to reevaluate their relationship with white wines.

However, not all wines are better when aged. Wines that age need to possess the right structure and characteristics. Whites have minimal or no tannins, and perhaps this is one of the reasons that white wines don’t always age. Tannin is an important component, especially in reds, that gives wine staying power. However, there are other factors that help a wine to age, including acidity and residual sugar.

Acidity also helps wine to feel fresh over time, and as sommeliers we always look for white wines that are made from high-acid varieties. Same for sweet or fortified wines with residual sugar, they can also age well, some for over 100 years.

As we found out at Vasilikon winery, in a good year, a high-quality Xynisteri can develop some beautiful complexities over time if stored properly. I suggest making room in your cellar for age-worthy white wines; red wines are fun but they are not the only ones.

2024 Kathikas Winery, Vasilikon Xynisteri, PGI Pafos, ABV12.5%

Young and still a bit tight, straw yellow with green tints, a wine that encompasses freshness from start to finish, the 2024 Vasilikon Xynisteri presents an aromatic profile of lime zest, mandarin, fleshy stone fruit, crushed rocks, flint and herbs on the nose. The palate showcases vibrant stone, fleshy stone fruit, with some tropical notes such as guava, accompanied by bright citrus, grapefruit flavours and a pronounced minerality. Getting better day by day, from a difficult, hot vintage. €9.50

2023 Kathikas Winery Vasilikon Xynisteri, PGI Pafos, ABV 12%

Like 2024, the 2023 was also another dry year but not as hot. All winemakers were raving about it. This maritime-influenced Xynisteri has a light yellow colour, more complex and subtle aromas of nectarine, lime and grapefruit zest, white apricot and peach, herbs and freshly cut grass with hints of minerality. There are hints of stone fruit and white flowers too. More stone fruit, grapefruit peel, wet stone and high-toned acidity that takes shape for a clean mouthfeel in this medium-bodied, dry white. €9

2020 Kathikas Winery Vasilikon Xynisteri, PDO Laona Akamas ABV 12%

Light yellow colour, with an evolved, fine nose of ripe hawthorn, pear and peach and with a hint of nuttiness, fine herbs and some caramel with a touch of cider aromas. The palate is very pure with savoury, nutty saltiness. Very linear with brightness and some tangerine characters. Warmth on the nose but pure with a linear, open character and great acidity for Xynisteri. €10

2018 Kathikas Winery Vasilikon Xynisteri, PDO Laona Akamas, ABV 12%

Aged Xynisteri, a seven-year-old gem. Light yellow colour with medium aromatic intensity notes of dry flowers, fennel and boxwood, along with hints of ripe peach, tropical and citrus as well as some earthy, white mushroom aromas in the background. On the palate, it is cheerful and marked by its varietal character, still crispy, more stone fruit and white pepper lurking along with good acidity and a long, citrusy and herbal finish. €10

2015 Kathikas Winery, Vasilikon Xynisteri, PGI Pafos, ABV 12.5%

Another fine vintage, this 10-year-old Xynisteri has a brilliant yellow colour and gold hue. Bold on the nose, some quince, green melon and vivid pear, citrussy and spicy with hints of green pepper, followed by a yeasty, minty character. Lovely, rounded lemon, grapefruit and pear palate, still lively but with medium intensity. Still developing nicely. €10

Epiloges

Still at Kathikas Winery, let us celebrate the upcoming Xynisteri International day on May 15 with more single vineyard wines from the Vasilikon Epiloges line.

2022 Kathikas Winery, Epiloges Single Vineyard Inia, PDO Laona Akamas, ABV 11.5%

Light yellow colour, expressive and radiant, there are sharp sensations of the Mediterranean blend with aromas from ageing on lees like fine herbs, fresh white flowers, jasmine, yellow mirabelles, lemon blossoms, chamomile, peach and candied orange. On the palate there are typical flavours of Xynisteri centred on concentrated stone fruit, supplemented by freshness and minerality. The lengthy finish finally gives time for minerals and fine herbs to develop and linger. €14

2022 Kathikas Winery Epiloges Single Vineyard Kathikas, PDO Laona Akamas, ABV 12%

Pale yellow with the greenish tint typical of Xynisteri grape. Fresh and aromatic with hints of citrus fruit and grapefruit, white peach, apple and orange peel and tropical fruit with hints of orchid blossom. A full body, palate of stone fruit, with pear and citrus, showing real drive, clean acidity, hint of minerality followed by a lingering mineral, salty finish. Refreshingly elegant. €14

2022 Kathikas Winery Epiloges Single Vineyard Arodes, PDO Laona Akamas, ABV 12%

Pale straw yellow colour with green reflections. Its nose is floral, white flowers, herbs, white-fleshed fruits, pear, green apple and kiwi aromas with hints of glazed lemons. The palate is rich and very fresh, with good weight and crisp acidity, structured but also nicely textured, with mango and peaches and with some saltiness in the finish. €14